| Ref: Chic Scott's Summits
and Icefields |
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Almost out of the
bush. |
Ski
mountaineering: RT 14.5;
9.25 up (including a 45 minute crevasse rescue). Finally, Mount
Wilson!!! Fab and I attempted this objective 15
years ago from Rampart Creek; not a stellar experience... When I heard
about the "direct route" in Chic Scott's recent edition, I knew we
would choose this way on our next try. Well, the forecast and snow
conditions were just perfect for this really long day trip. We psyched
and prepared ourselves at the last minute despite feeling a little bit
rundown; leaving Golden at 3 AM to allow an early start. We parked near
a gravel flat, 700 meters from the highway junction, and started the
plod towards the ascent gully with our skis on our packs. We soon
encountered firm snow so we decided to put the skis on and weave
through the trees. After about an hour, we reached the gully.
Initially, the gully is a pleasant climb. It gets narrower and steeper
in the left fork. We had to take our skis off at some point due to
avalanche debris strewn about the slopes and a hard crust (we didn't
have ski crampons). We arrived at the col already taxed. After a quick
break, we got ready for a nervous descent on the steep north-facing
slope. We came down conservatively and resumed climbing towards the
glacier. The scenery is awesome. We skied on wind-pressed
snow, fully enjoying the experience. Further, near the last rocks, we
roped
up and started the ascent on the glacier. Crevasses are easily
circumvented and travel is fairly simple. With a steady, determined
plod, we gained sight of the summit ridge and summit antenna.
Eventually, we saw the long gentle rib meeting with the summit ridge,
yes! We also noticed another group behind us. We continued to a saddle
on the ridge and left our skis. From
here, we expected the top would not take that long to attain.
Excited, I started up the summit ridge avoiding the cornice. Shortly into the bootpack, I
suddenly dropped. Eyes wide open, I realized I had fallen about 15 feet
in a crevasse. My arms were pinned against my body as the falling
debris buried me to my shoulders. Panic set in, worried of more snow
coming down. I started to wiggle my feet and kick with my crampons, in
little time I was out of the snow. The rope had cut deep into the
crevasse's edge,
I wasn't going anywhere. Communication was near impossible
and I just wanted out of this icy, shady hole. I could see at the
up most part of the slot, the cornice's snow layers, even sky... At the
lower end of it, I would be able to walk out, once we got the rope
free. Although I was standing on snow with an easy way
out, I
felt irrational. In the meantime, Fab set an anchor. After what
seemed a long time, he appeared at the edge of the slot. We
were able to get the rope free allowing me to see sunlight
again. Very shaken, I greeted the other team of two, now taking their
skis off. I had been on an ACC trip with the fellow. Jay and his lady
friend Arianne had made good time to get here. They took the lead along
the summit ridge and we soon stood by telemetry. We crouched in the lee
of
the cabin. Fab and I were ecstatic, it had been quite the
experience to get here. I reflected on the rescue in a positive way in
hopes of being more rehearsed if this was to happen
again... I pray not... Returning was much faster but far from
effortless.
The crusty snow surface combined with very tired legs made the ski down
less than great. Survival skiing and a good snow plow saved our knees.
The last pitch before the climb to the col was actually fantastic, all
twenty undemanding turns. We stopped in the sun and put the skins back
on for the last climb. The ascent was manageable, we remained close to
our tracks and
didn't linger. We were not expecting a great ski in the gully either;
in fact, we side slipped the whole upper part (even taking skis off for
a short bit). Thankfully, the skiing got better near the fork and we
got another set of good turns. Fab and I took a nice long break looking
back at the ascent gully before entering the bush in knee deep mash
potato snow. We followed Jay and Arianne's post-holes through the bush.
With skis on my back, this was by far the worst part of the trip! The
end of the trudge did come and we finally met up with the other team at
the road. Jay was very nice and offered Fab a ride to our car, only 500
meters away. I will remember Mount Wilson for not only the stunning
scenery and magnificent views but for the grueling effort it required,
the experience gained and the blessings we received.
Note
on the crevasse: This 10 feet wide crevasse runs perpendicular to the
ridge crest, 138632. It is visible on Google
Earth. Right
after leaving the skis at the saddle, it is best to contour wide,
climber's right, staying lower on the summit ridge. |
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Bottom of the ascent
gully. |
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Taking the left fork
in the ascent gully. |
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The gully narrows
and steepens. |
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Avalanche debris and
a hard crust made it difficult to keep the skis on. |
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Nearing the col. |
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Wilson Icefield from
the col. |
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Looking back up
towards the col. |
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Heading for the
glacier. |
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Perfect conditions
for this very long outing. |
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Mount Murchison and
the col in the foreground. |
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Slowly getting
closer. |
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Almost at the summit
ridge. |
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Another picture of
the south-eastern view. |
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Shortly after
leaving our skis, I fall 15 feet in a crevasse... |
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This bridged slot
held my weight for several steps before collapsing. |
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At the top, Mount
Erasmus to the
south-west. |
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Jay, Arianne and Fab. |
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The summit ridge. |
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Eastern view along
the North Saskatchewan River. |
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The heli-pad (left)
is fully covered in snow. |
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Last glimpse, the
summit is at the far left. |
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Off the glacier. Our
route went climber's right of the crevasses. |
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Back at the col,
Saskatchewan Crossing is a nice sight! |
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Fab arriving at the
col. |
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Side slipping most
of
the way down. |
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Skiing got better
lower down the ascent gully. |
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Fab drags his skis
instead of putting them on his pack. |
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