| Ref: Alan
Kane's
Scrambles
in the Canadian Rockies |
|
|
|
|
A permit is required
to allow
access through the fossil beds.
|
| Scramble:
RT 13.0; 6.5 up. Mount
Stephen is a serious scramble; not only does it require nearly 2000 m
of
height gain, it also grants a couple of sections of difficult
scrambling with heady exposure. I've driven by the behemoth countless
times, there's no missing it as it towers next to the Trans-Canada
highway looming over the small town of Field. I tried this ascent
almost 20 years ago but the crux proved to be too intimidating; now
that
I've acquired some experience, I figured I should give it another
try. Jay and Ariane were on their way to the Kootenays for a vacation
so I extended an invitation, it had been quite some time since Fab and
I had seen
them. They picked up their permits on saturday and we met them at the
trailhead early morning on sunday. The hike in is nice as the trail
climbs steadily. After about 700 meters of height gain, we came across
the fossil beds. We slowed down dramatically to take pictures. The
trail gets increasingly steep thereafter, we continued hiking thankful
for the breeze on
this hot bluebird day. After tackling a rather long talus slope, we
reached the summit block. Route finding on the summit block isn't
particularly difficult, several cairns indicate passages. The
scrambling is mostly moderate until the crux is reached. The airy ridge
that precedes
the difficult scrambling is exciting and the sight of the crux provokes
a rise in heart beats! At the "notch", we were relieved to see that it
was
unnecessary to jump it. We downclimbed to a shallow saddle that gives
access to a narrow ledge, that ledge leads to an exposed weakness on
the wall. This was the moment of truth, I wasn't sure how I would fair
out climbing the crux; honestly, I didn't want to think about it too
much. I carefully followed Jay on the ledge. Ariane and I joked
nervously as he started his ascent, then it was our turn. The holds in
the pronounced fissure are really positive and I
think that helped, I focused on the climb without looking down.
The top of the crux is a bit tougher and at this point I was looking
forward to
getting onto easier ground. The rest of the hike to the summit
consisted of
short
scrambly bits and an airy walk on a broken narrow ridge. We were
committed to the ridge because snow barred the way on the scree ledge
bypass; we did get off the ridge momentarily just before reaching the
top, it was a nice break from the heady exposure. A moment thereafter,
we stepped on the heli-pad and dropped our packs. The view is
exceptional, Mount Stephen appears to stand as high as the surrounding
glaciated peaks, luckily the smoke from the forest fires wasn't too bad
yet. We lingered at
the top for an hour before considering our return. Backtracking the
airy ridge was just as exciting as before. Once at the crux, I started
getting nervous again,
I knew using the short rope would be tricky. I watched Jay and Ariane
go down the
top pitch and followed suit. The top part is split up from the rest of
the weakness by a short traverse to a protruding rock; I waited
there so that Fab could pass me and downclimb below me in case I needed
assistance with
my feet placements. This worked out good. The rest of the descent was
easy aside from the substantial height loss and pounding
on our poor knees. It's fair to say we were all very tired and
satisfied
when we reached the trailhead. We stopped at the Truffle Pig for a
well-deserved cold beer to finish off this fine day in style.
Scrambling Mount Stephen is definitely A+!
|
|
 |
|
The
trail
offers a pleasant approach.
|
|
 |
|
Countless
fossils along the way.
|
|
 |
|
Still
a lot
of elevation to gain beyond treeline.
|
|
 |
|
Aiming
for a
wide gully cleaving the rockband.
|
|
 |
|
Staying
on
the side to avoid very loose terrain.
|
|
 |
|
Looking
back, Mount King appears small from here!
|
|
 |
|
A
significant talus slope leads to the summit block.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
At
the
summit block.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Circumventing
the summit block climber's right until we locate the weakness.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
This
looks
like the correct route.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Fun
scrambling and a bit of route finding. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Nearing
the
crux that is partly visible on the upper right. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Making
our
way to the ridge.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
The
town of
Field looks tiny.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
The
notch
and the crux are just ahead of us.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Negotiating
the airy ridge with Mount Vaux in the background.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
At
the
notch, we dipped down from the ridge to the ledge of the crux, no "gap
jumping" is necessary.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Looking
at
another route that leads to the notch, note the old rope; the ridge is
the safest way in my opinion.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jay
starts
up on the crux.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Fabrice
takes pictures of us climbing the crux from the ridge.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Jay,
Ariane
and myself on the upper part of the crux.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
On
the
summit ridge.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
The
telemetry building is clearly visible.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
The
ridge
grants some fine scrambling opportunities.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
The
ridge
also offers exhilarating moments.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
More
of the
same.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Summit
of
Mount Stephen.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
The
register
is inside the telemetry building.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Nothing's
wrong with a bit of humour!
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Ariane
and
myself on the heli-pad.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Fabrice
and
Jay.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
View
east
towards the Valley of Ten Peaks.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
View
south.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Northern
view.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
A
para-glider could be a good option if it was permitted!
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Heading
back
down.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Impressive
walls surround the amphitheater below.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
An
airy
section along the summit ridge.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
A
small gap
is easily spanned from a seated position.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Typical
terrain along the summit ridge.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Fabrice
scrambles a rock step.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Descending
from the ridge towards the crux.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Engaging
the
upper part of the crux, the exposure is real...
|
|
|
 |
|
|
This
section
is the most unnerving.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
On
the ledge
at the base of the crux with the notch ahead.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Looking
back
at the crux.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Careful
backtracking on the summit block.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Some
scrambling.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Some
route
finding.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
...and
some
fooling around!
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Leaving
the
upper mountain behind.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Last
glimpse.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Back
in the
trees.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Trilobites.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
More
Trilobites.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Well-deserved
beer at the end of a fabulous day out in the mountains.
|
| Back
to home page |
|
|