Stanley Peak

elevation: 3,155 m. height gain: 1,725 m.
area: Kootenay Park,BC map 82 N/1

Ref: Dave's Place

a while back

Haffner Canyon in 2000 before the forest fire.
Scramble: RT 13.0 (car to bivy); 3.5 up from bivy. This is a good scramble up an impressive peak. Unfortunately, the approach is long and arduous and scramblers are most likely carrying a heavy pack with overnight gear. Haffner Creek has changed since we hiked through in 2000 to scramble up Mount Ball. The forest obstructed the view but we can't recall as much deadfall. The forest fire that engulfed the whole length of the drainage stripped the trees and shrubs leaving a groundcover of fireweed. Although the hike in is more scenic, we were mostly looking down to avoid hidden fallen trees. It took us 4 hours to reach the headwall and another hour to reach our bivy site. After dropping all the extra gear and taking a good break, we started the traverse towards Stanley. At the end of the ramp that circumvents Beatrice's south-west ridge, we continued along a ledge and down a weakness into the Stanley/Beatrice cirque. Upon looking back, we noticed an easier way back up to the ramp; this line is not obvious from above. We carried on with the ascent going wide climber's left to avoid rockbands. Once on the ridge, we climbed blocky terrain to the summit block. We thought we would ascend up the snow but the rock felt safer. The scrambling is not difficult and there is room for variation. Above the face, the final stretch of snow leads to the summit. Tucked behind the cairn, it wasn't that windy. We stayed to enjoy the fantastic view, happy we didn't have to rush down to head out. After well over an hour, we gradually retraced our steps back down the mountain. We ascended back up to the ramp using the easier line we spotted earlier.
same place now

The same location since the devastation in 2003.

fireweed country

Lots of fireweed and deadfall along the way.

nearing the headwall

Nearing the headwall, we climb above cliffs and continue towards the talus slope.


Nice fossil of a Trilobite.

haffner from above

Higher up, we have a good view over Haffner Creek.

stanley peak

A look towards Stanley Peak and its access ramp.

bivy site

We find a flat spot with a water source for our bivy site.

traverse to stanley

Travelling along the ramp below a rockwall.

stanley/beatrice cirque

Traversing into Stanley/Beatrice cirque.

ascent ridge

We went wide climber's left to avoid rockbands.

looking back

Looking back at the ramp and the approach terraces.

easy ascent ridge

The summit block from the south-south-west ridge.

summit block

We aimed for the diagonal snow patch in the center.

up the face

At the snow patch, we start up the face (left).

better on rock

Further up, we trade snow for rock and ascend above Fab's head.

blocky terrain

Blocky terrain on the upper mountain.

top of the face

Almost at the crest of the face.

summit ahead

At the edge of a vast snowy slope, we finally see the cairn!

mount ball

Mount Ball from the summit.

at the top

Awesome sights from this lofty peak, well worth the effort.

valley of the ten peaks

The "Ten Peaks" Range beyond Mount Whymper.

leaving the top

Getting ready to leave.

the rockwall is stunning

Mount Drysdale and Limestone Peak form the stunning northern section of The Rockwall.

back on rock

Quickly back on rock.

dark bluff

Glancing down from the top of the face, heading towards the dark bluff below.

easy way near the bluff

Near the dark bluff is the easiest way down.

gully to ridge

Going down the gully and scooting over the ridge on the right.

water, need water

Stopping to replenish our water bottles.

lower slopes

The lower slopes of Stanley Peak.

back to the ramp

Once on the ramp, we are minutes away from our bivy.
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