Pilot Mountain

elevation: 2,935 m. height gain: 1,535 m.
area: Banff/Bow Valley,AB map 82 O/4

Ref: Alan Kane's Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies
at the bridge, first gully

Start of the first drainage from the wooden bridge.
Scramble: RT 12.0; 7.0 up. This was an amazing feat for me. This difficult scramble proved to be the toughest to date. We approached from the first gully which was O.K. The traverse didn't take that long even if we skirted around the bluffs to gain the ridge. On the way back we came down a gully that breaches the bluffs enabling quick height loss. When we reached the flake, I scrambled to the choke stone then asked Fab to go ahead and set an anchor past the ledge. That section made me nervous, it set the tone for the rest of the climb! Fab also short roped me up the two following cruxes. Sorry, no time for pictures but there's lots on the internet. Man, when I reached the summit plateau I was mentally exhausted and very relieved to see broadness. We hung out for nearly an hour at the top, enjoying the astonishing views and gorgeous weather. Fab tried to dry out the summit register, the container filled with water because the o-ring is broken on the lid (anybody want to bring up an array of o-rings between 1.5-3 inches?) Surprisingly enough, the way down was not as intimidating; I knew what was coming and I was on belay for the difficult sections. After that, we hurried back down and tried to make some time to avoid getting home too late (kibble time for Lincoln). Fab fell on the traverse, tweaking his shoulder and bashing his knuckles on both hands. That added to the gash he suffered on the calf higher up when he stepped down against a razor edged rock. We can't say we didn't leave blood, sweat and tears!
upper gully

The upper gully and our route up to the shoulder.

a view of the upper gully

Closer to the upper gully, the way up still not clear from here.

looking down the upper gully

Looking down at the upper gully, we ascended climber's left of this outcrop.

the objective

Pilot's summit block from the shoulder.

the traverse

The traverse to the north-west ridge.

speedy descent

A speedy descent from the north-west ridge!

summit block

The summit block, the flake is more apparent.

fab at the top

Fab drying the register.


Mount Assiniboine.

mount ball

Mount Ball and Shadow Lake.


A close up view of Copper Mountain.


Mount Brett and it's narrow ascent ridge.

jo at the top

Jo at the summit.
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