Haddo Peak

elevation: 3,070 m. height gain: 290 m. (from Mount Aberdeen, includes height loss)
area: Lake Louise,AB map 82 N/8

Ref: Sean Dougherty's Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies
heading to haddo

Heading to Haddo Peak.
Alpine climb: RT 14.0 (includes Mount Aberdeen), 1.0 up. Haddo Peak is an excellent extension to the Aberdeen outing; it offers a short exciting scramble, easy glacier travel and a pleasant walk to the top. Along with the bear sighting earlier, this was one of the highlights. I wasn't sure what to expect of the upcoming crux, we had a short rope if needed. A bit nervous, I followed Jay's lead across the airy ridge; a trail is visible and holds are plentiful, it was easily negotiated. Soon thereafter, we stood above the crux. Roomy horizontal ledges with positive holds rendered this short section easier than expected, moderate scrambling in good conditions. At the bottom of the crux, there's a convenient spot where you can don crampons before stepping on snow. Travel on the glacier is fast, we came across a section of bare ice where crampons came in handy. At the col, we left all unnecessary equipment strewn about and carried on to the top. The easy walk on good terrain permitted us to look around along the way. I was thrilled to be on this nice summit; all day I was hoping the weather wouldn't worsen so we could stand here. As we stayed to enjoyed the sights, lingering dark clouds looming over the mountains west of us appeared to lower. Without hurrying too much, we began backtracking to the summit of Aberdeen; it took us 2.5 hours return trip. Back on Aberdeen, we hung out a while longer as the weather was cooperating. We casually went down using scree for ease of travel and the snow for a quick glissade. Eventually, we reached the fan of the gully and located a faint trail along Paradise Creek. Hiking was decent until we neared the decommissioned trail, a short nasty section of bushwhacking ensued. Once on the trail, we resumed hiking with the odd conversations here and there. I'm very pleased with this outing, I'm especially thankful it never rained!
narrow ridge

The connecting ridge narrows but is easily negotiated.

moderate scrambling

Moderate scrambling down the crux.

bottom of the crux

Bottom of the crux.

easy glacier travel

Straightforward glacier travel.

pleasant trekking

Pleasant trekking with awesome sights.

just a walk up

Easy walking to the top of Haddo.

almost there

Almost there and the weather is holding!

dark sky to the west

The dark sky to the west has been there most of the day.

at the top

Big square blocks announce the top of Haddo Peak.

mount temple

Mount Temple and Lake Annette.

a bit of sun

The sun pierces through as we savour the scenery.

back down

Heading back down to the col.


Backtracking to Mount Aberdeen.

quick jaunt

Quick jaunt under a darkening sky.

looking back

Looking back.

regrouped below the crux

Good spot to regroup and put away crampons and axe.

up the crux

The crux grants horizontal ledges and positive holds.

connecting ridge

Jay waits on the connecting ridge.

airy ridge

Fabrice and Sonny rounding up the airy ridge.

mount lefroy

Imposing Mount Lefroy from the summit of Mount Aberdeen.

another break

Down the west ridge.

using loose scree

Using loose scree for a fast descent.

lining up for glissading

Traversing to line up for a fun glissade.

fastest way down

Fastest way down other than paragliding!

face shots

Sonny's getting face shots.

sentinel pass

Sentinel Pass with Pinnacle Mountain and Eiffel Peak to the right.

more descent

More descent.

along paradise creek

Following Paradise Creek back to the decommissioned trail.
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