Trapper Peak
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| elevation: 2,988 m. | height gain: 1,350 m. (includes height loss) |
| area: Wapta Icefield,AB |
map 82 N/10 |
| 2017-May-20 |
| Ref: Chic Scott's Summits and Icefields | |
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| The journey begins, welcome to
Canada Kevin! |
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| Ski
mountaineering:
RT 4.0 (from the bivi); 2.0 up. Just arrived from Colorado, there was
no
time to waste planning a big ski outing for the weekend. An
American friend, Kevin, was coming for a visit with high expectations.
From the
south-eastern parts of the States he didn't have much skiing experience
but he had bought full ski mountaineering gear hoping to go on a
glacier. At this time of the year, it proved challenging for
me to figure out an adventure on
a glacier tame enough for his skill set. The Bow Lake access to the
Wapta Glacier had already started to melt and the Athabasca Glacier
seemed too complex; that left Peyto Glacier that I was comfortable and
familiar with. Visiting Peyto Glacier granted the
option to do a beautiful alpine climb up Trapper Peak if conditions
permitted. With this chosen objective in mind, I started looking for a
third member to join us. The weather appeared to be
shaping up for the weekend. After a couple of messages, Doug
Lutz committed to the trip. I knew Doug from the internet, he's an
active member of the scrambling community; I was thrilled to finally
meet him. Doug planned to be travelling on snowshoes instead of skis.
The difference on the
roped-up ascent would be minimal and since Kevin was learning how to
ski, I thought we wouldn't gain that much distance on the way down. We
agreed we would descend unroped;
with "local knowledge" of this glacier, I felt comfortable with this
decision. We met at Bow Summit's lower parking lot early saturday morning. Starting from there, we would be avoiding travel on thawing Peyto Lake. This route added a steep 300-meter descent (ascent on return) to reach the moraines, we jotted that down as "the price of admission" for this trip. I was shocked to see the lack of snow on the moraines. That's when I realized that gaining the glacier would require much determination and perseverance. Hiking in talus with ski boots and an awkward pack weighing 40 lbs isn't easy, this adventure would definitely leave an impression on all of us. Luckily for Kevin and I, a stretch of snow beyond the flats interrupted the slog; we were both pleased to take the skis off the packs to ascend the moraine. Easy travel was short-lived though, we had to stow the skis for the steeper part of the ascent and the section leading to the Glaciology Research Center. From the center, travel greatly improved. We roped up and pleasantly trekked to our chosen camp location, it took us 10 hours. We enjoyed a windless bluebird afternoon surrounded by the stunning snowcovered peaks of the Wapta Icefield. The night was calm and mild. We awoke at 2 AM under a starry sky, temperature barely below zero. We quickly set off towards Trapper Peak a short distance away, the terrain was easily negotiated. Predawn light was soon upon us and the neighbouring mountains' silhouettes were discernible. We left skis and snowshoes at the base of Trapper and engaged on the steep north-east face. The snow was mostly firm but probing the snowpack revealed a superficial freeze atop soft snow, clearly it was imperative to be off the slopes once they started baking in the sun. Our early start gave us sufficient time to ascend and catch the phenomenal sunrise on the summit ridge, the timing was perfect! A short scramble led to a narrow ridge that quickly delivered us to the confined corniced summit. We enjoyed the alpenglow on the mountains around, the scenery was exquisite. I could tell that Kevin was deeply impressed. We stayed on the summit long enough to soak in the view and snap numerous pictures. Our descent was speedy, we chased the shade off the slopes ahead of us. A fun glissade back to our gear followed. We were very thrilled with this amazing ascent, Kevin and I were also looking forward to an effortless ski back to camp. What came next was disheartening. One of my skis dislodged from the snow without my brake engaged and started down the slope. I tried to stop it by throwing my alpine axe at it but that failed. Doug followed it as it nearly missed landing in the only crevasse in sight. I charged down on one ski leaving Kevin to figure how to ski, not the best thing to do but he did just fine maneuvering the low angled terrain without losing control. Back at the tent, we took the time to relish the heat of the sun and rehydrate, it was only 7 AM. Once packed, we casually descended to the toe of the glacier; the ski down was pleasant and effortless despite all the weight on my back. Kevin executed wide controlled turns, his skiing had improved quickly and Doug's fast pace kept him in close range. By the time we climbed back to the Glaciology Research Center, the heat was almost unbearable and I was really feeling the accumulated fatigue. We had another long break before tackling the moraines carrying the skis. Good grief, I couldn't even lift my pack anymore, the guys had to help me. When I reached the long stretch of snow, I decided to ski to the flats even if the snow was rotten; I just wanted a break from the heavy load. This worked out good giving me an additional break while I waited for Doug and Kevin. The following trudge on talus was brutal, I was happy to see Doug retreat in the trees for a break in some shade before walking the flats and climbing the final 300 meters to the lookout. I remember being so thirsty. My pace was quite slow for the remainder of the return, I felt depleted. We climbed the slide path to the trail which was discernible despite the remaining snow. Higher up, to avoid deep postholing, we put on skis and snowshoes. Reaching the lookout was a glorious moment, soon all this hardship would become a vague memory associated with this awesome adventure on the glacier. Trapper Peak had indeed been a fine objective and the weather was all we could have asked for. Thanks to Kevin and Doug for making this trip super special! |
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| Peyto Lake
is thawing, glad we didn't go that way.... |
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| Where's all
the snow? |
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| Sure, we're
all smiles now! |
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| Descending to the flats. | ||
| On the flats. |
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| Placing
rocks to make a path across. |
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| Trying to
keep the ski boots dry. Picture courtesy of Doug Lutz. |
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| Making our
way to the moraines. Picture courtesy of Doug Lutz. |
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| Kevin's
enjoying the grunt so far. |
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| A stretch of
snow to ski, good God. |
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| Making good
use of the skis! Picture courtesy of Doug Lutz. |
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| Freedom. |
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| The
snowcover is unfortunately interrupted higher up, break time. |
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| Bloody
isothermal snow.... Picture courtesy of Doug Lutz. |
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| Back on skis
we head towards the Glaciology Research Center. |
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| Kevin and I
effortly ski to the toe of the glacier. Picture courtesy of Doug Lutz. |
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| Setting up
the rope. Picture courtesy of Doug Lutz. |
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| Finally on
the glacier. |
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| Doug
confirms we're on the Wapta Icefield; right on, good to know! |
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| Mount Baker
(left) and Trapper Peak on the right. |
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| Nearing our
camp location with Peyto Peak in the background. |
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| Good
location right close to Trapper Peak. |
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| My American
friend is having a blast, this is a far cry from the land of oranges. |
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| A bit
crowded but that's how it rolls on the glacier. |
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| Time to get
up! Picture courtesy of Doug Lutz. |
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| Milky way. Picture courtesy of Doug Lutz. |
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| Ascending
the steep north-east face. |
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| Looking down. |
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| Predawn
orangy sky. |
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| Approaching
the upper slopes. |
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| Looking back
with Mount Thompson and the Wapta Icefield in the background. |
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| The sun is
about to rise over distinctive Peyto Peak. |
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| Doug and
Kevin climbing the last pitch to the summit saddle. |
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| The saddle
ahead. |
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| Alpenglow on
Mount Baker. |
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| Sunrise! |
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| Sunrise
again, just because it's so beautiful. Picture courtesy of Doug Lutz. |
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| Western view. |
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| From the
saddle it's a very short scramble to the summit. |
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| Doug on the
summit. |
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| View
south-east over the Wapta Icefield, I think Kevin is enjoying his
Canadian outing. |
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| Last steps,
don't slip Kev. |
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| More sunrise. |
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| Looking
north-west towards majestic Mount Forbes (right). |
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| A close up
of Mounts Mummery and Karakal to the west. |
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| Summit
picture. |
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| Heading down. |
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| The ascent
slopes are still in the shade. |
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| The snow is
softening quickly. |
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| Chasing the
shade away as we descend. |
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| Glissading
the lower slopes back to our gear. |
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| Kevin and I
skiing back to camp. Picture courtesy of Doug Lutz. |
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| Packed and
ready to ski the glacier. |
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| Whoosh, bye
bye Trapper. |
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| Staying
behind since I have the rope and extrication gear. |
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| Back at the
Glaciology Research Center for another good break. |
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| A long
return awaits, skis must be carried as the snow patches don't connect. |
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| Kevin
ditches his pack to take a break. |
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| Doug waits
for us slower peeps lugging skis... |
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| Skiing the
very last bit of snow just 'cause I can't stand my load anymore. |
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| Not the best
skiing but I'll take it! |
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| Back in the
talus, fun stuff in ski boots. |
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| Crossing the
creek is always good entertainment. |
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| Home free!!! |
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