Sifton, Mount

elevation: 2,922 m.  height gain: 1,630 m.
area: Rogers Pass,BC map 82 N/5
2016-Jul-24


Ref: David P. Jones' Rogers Pass Alpine guide.
        Via North Ridge Route -class 3

sifton clan


The Sifton clan: Ariane, Fab, Val, Jay (L to R) and myself.
Scramble: RT 15.0; 8.0 up. This classic class 3 scramble via the North Ridge is a beautiful and exciting outing that finishes with a steep snow slope to the top. When I mentioned it as an option to Jay and Ariane, they were quick to accept and drive to Golden for supper the night before. I also invited my good friend Val; I hadn't seen him for a long time and I figured that since this was in his backyard, there was a good chance he could join us. The following day, we set out early and met with Val at the Hermit Meadows parking lot. The grind up the steep trail to the meadows went well, it didn't seem too long as I conversed pretty much the whole way. At the end of the trail, we easily made our way to the Sifton-Rogers Col; from there, we began scrambling up the blocky ridge. Almost right from the start, we came upon a drop off on the ridge proper; after some "looking around" for a better option, Fabrice found a way to circumvent the drop and we resumed our ascent. We were worried about the steep buttress that precedes the snow slope, it appeared complex and difficult; we ended up traversing that section of the ridge on its west aspect. This turned out to be entirely unnecessary as walking the ridge crest offers fun scrambling and is a way better option. Once at the snow slope, we donned crampons and climbed to the top. The final pitch proved to be quite steep, I was glad to have crampons and I made good use of my axe! Our summit stay was nice, it was mild and not too breezy. The view of the tall glaciated mountains all around never disappoints and the company was great. After a good while, we started heading down. Descending the steep snow required care, we had to front-point the initial steep bit. Lower on the slope, some of us decided to glissade; including Ariane who may have gone a bit too far down unwillingly, ...self arresting in the softening snow was not an easy task as she found out! Back on rock, we put away our crampons and continued our descent on the ridge crest. It was mainly a walk with easy scrambling right until we got to the steeper part; there, we picked our way circumventing difficulties on the west side. A route always revealed itself and was never too difficult, it seemed several options were possible and the scrambling on the blocky terrain was delightful. We backtracked down the col and took another good break next to a stream before heading back down to the parking lot. I think it's fair to say we all enjoyed this outing in the stunning mountains of Rogers Pass. This ridge offers excellent scrambling, it is thoroughly enjoyable!




end of the trail

The end of the trail at Hermit Meadows.

random hiking

Pleasant random hiking to the Sifton Basin.

view over hermit meadows

Mount MacDonald and the Asulkan Drainage beyond Hermit Meadows.

aiming for the col

Aiming for the Sifton-Rogers Col.

clouds come and go


Looking back at the clan, clouds come and go.


our objective


Our objective is the snow-capped peak in the center.


my good friend val


My good friend Val is happy to be out on this classic outing situated in his backyard.


ariane rocks the house


Fab takes pictures while Ariane "rocks the house"!!


ascending to the col


Ascending snow to the col.


let the scrambling begin


On the ridge, let the scrambling begin.


following the ridge crest


Following the ridge crest.


an easy route reveals itself


An easy route reveals itself climber's left.


navigating through big blocks


Navigating through big blocks.


thumbs up


Thumbs up!!


straightforward so far


Straightforward so far.


drop off ahead


What's that Jay... a drop off?


circumventing the drop off


Circumventing the "drop off" by backtracking a bit and going around climber's left.


back on the ridge proper


Back on the ridge proper with the "drop off" behind us.


looking back at the drop off


Looking back at the "drop off" again; fun scrambling here.


steep buttress ahead


The buttress ahead looks steep!


going around difficulties


At the steep buttress, we go around difficulties climber's right.


nearing the snow slope


Nearing the snow slope and summit.


Ariane and jay on the ridge


Ariane and Jay making their way to the snow slope.


sifton basin below


Sifton Basin below with topless Mount Tupper.


ascending the steep snow slope


Ascending the steep snow slope to the top.


looking back


Looking back at the North Ridge.


jay at the top


Jay at the top!!


summit shot


Summit shot of the clan.


western view


Looking west towards Wolverine Peak.


highway below


The highway below and one of the ski runs from Little Sifton on the right.


heading down


Heading down with Ariane rockin' out on her air guitar.


front pointing down


The top pitch requires "front-pointing" for descending.


to glissade or not


To glissade or not...


back on the fabulous ridge


Back on the fabulous ridge.


good travel


The ridge crest grants good travel.


moderate scrambling


Moderate scrambling moves keep the outing interesting.


delightful


Big blocks with no scree equals delightful.


skirting difficulties


Skirting difficulties on the west side until lower down on the ridge.


entertaining ridge


A look back at the entertaining ridge.


awe-inspiring scenery


Loving this scramble and the awe-inspiring scenery.


good-looking bunch


Happy, good-looking bunch!!


pas de chat


Pas de chat.


more of this aesthetic ridge


More of this aesthetic ridge line and snowy summit.


mounts tupper and macdonald


Mounts Tupper and MacDonald on the right.


mount tupper


A close up of beautiful Mount Tupper.


at the drop off


Returned at the "drop off".


kuddos bitches


Kuddos bitches!!!!


big blocks from earlier


Navigating the big blocks from earlier.


alternate descent


Taking an alternate descent.


enjoying a fine break


Enjoying a fine break before resuming our descent.


i love rogers pass


Illecillewaet Glacier; I love Rogers Pass!
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