Sifton, Mount

elevation: 2,922 m.  height gain: 1,630 m.
area: Rogers Pass,BC
map 82 N/5

Ref: David P. Jones' Rogers Pass Alpine guide.
        Via North Ridge Route -class 3

sifton clan

The Sifton clan: Ariane, Fab, Val, Jay (L to R) and myself.
Scramble: RT 15.0; 8.0 up. This classic class 3 scramble via the North Ridge is a beautiful and exciting outing that finishes with a steep snow slope to the top. When I mentioned it as an option to Jay and Ariane, they were quick to accept and drive to Golden for supper the night before. I also invited my good friend Val; I hadn't seen him for a long time and I figured that since this was in his backyard, there was a good chance he could join us. The following day, we set out early and met with Val at the Hermit Meadows parking lot. The grind up the steep trail to the meadows went well, it didn't seem too long as I conversed pretty much the whole way. At the end of the trail, we easily made our way to the Sifton-Rogers Col; from there, we began scrambling up the blocky ridge. Almost right from the start, we came upon a drop off on the ridge proper; after some "looking around" for a better option, Fabrice found a way to circumvent the drop and we resumed our ascent. We were worried about the steep buttress that precedes the snow slope, it appeared complex and difficult; we ended up traversing that section of the ridge on its west aspect. This turned out to be entirely unnecessary as walking the ridge crest offers fun scrambling and is a way better option. Once at the snow slope, we donned crampons and climbed to the top. The final pitch proved to be quite steep, I was glad to have crampons and I made good use of my axe! Our summit stay was nice, it was mild and not too breezy. The view of the tall glaciated mountains all around never disappoints and the company was great. After a good while, we started heading down. Descending the steep snow required care, we had to front-point the initial steep bit. Lower on the slope, some of us decided to glissade; including Ariane which might have gone a bit too far down unwillingly, ...self arresting in the softening snow was not an easy task as she found out! Back on rock, we put away our crampons and continued our descent on the ridge crest. It was mainly a walk with easy scrambling right until we got to the steeper part; there, we picked our way circumventing difficulties on the west side. A route always revealed itself and was never too difficult, it seemed several options were possible and the scrambling on the blocky terrain was delightful. We backtracked down the col and took another good break next to a stream before heading back down to the parking lot. I think it's fair to say we all enjoyed this outing in the stunning mountains of Rogers Pass. This ridge offers excellent scrambling, it is thoroughly enjoyable!

end of the trail

The end of the trail at Hermit Meadows.

random hiking

Pleasant random hiking to the Sifton Basin.

view over hermit meadows

Mount MacDonald and the Asulkan Drainage beyond Hermit Meadows.

aiming for the col

Aiming for the Sifton-Rogers Col.

clouds come and go

Looking back at the clan, clouds come and go.

our objective

Our objective is the snow-capped peak in the center.

my good friend val

My good friend Val is happy to be out on this classic outing situated in his backyard.

ariane rocks the house

Fab takes pictures while Ariane "rocks the house"!!

ascending to the col

Ascending snow to the col.

let the scrambling begin

On the ridge, let the scrambling begin.

following the ridge crest

Following the ridge crest.

an easy route reveals itself

An easy route reveals itself climber's left.

navigating through big blocks

Navigating through big blocks.

thumbs up

Thumbs up!!

straightforward so far

Straightforward so far.

drop off ahead

What's that Jay... a drop off?

circumventing the drop off

Circumventing the "drop off" by backtracking a bit and going around climber's left.

back on the ridge proper

Back on the ridge proper with the "drop off" behind us.

looking back at the drop off

Looking back at the "drop off" again; fun scrambling here.

steep buttress ahead

The buttress ahead looks steep!

going around difficulties

At the steep buttress, we go around difficulties climber's right.

nearing the snow slope

Nearing the snow slope and summit.

Ariane and jay on the ridge

Ariane and Jay making their way to the snow slope.

sifton basin below

Sifton Basin below with topless Mount Tupper.

ascending the steep snow slope

Ascending the steep snow slope to the top.

looking back

Looking back at the North Ridge.

jay at the top

Jay at the top!!

summit shot

Summit shot of the clan.

western view

Looking west towards Wolverine Peak.

highway below

The highway below and one of the ski runs from Little Sifton on the right.

heading down

Heading down with Ariane rockin' out with her air guitar.

front pointing down

The top pitch requires "front-pointing" for descending.

to glissade or not

To glissade or not...

back on the fabulous ridge

Back on the fabulous ridge.

good travel

The ridge crest grants good travel.

moderate scrambling

Moderate scrambling moves keep the outing interesting.


Big blocks with no scree equals delightful.

skirting difficulties

Skirting difficulties on the west side until lower down on the ridge.

entertaining ridge

A look back at the entertaining ridge.

awe-inspiring scenery

Loving this scramble and the awe-inspiring scenery.

good-looking bunch

Happy, good-looking bunch!!

pas de chat

Pas de chat.

more of this aesthetic ridge

More of this aesthetic ridge line and snowy summit.

mounts tupper and macdonald

Mounts Tupper and MacDonald on the right.

mount tupper

A close up of beautiful Mount Tupper.

at the drop off

Returned at the "drop off".

kuddos bitches

Kuddos bitches!!!!

big blocks from earlier

Navigating the big blocks from earlier.

alternate descent

Taking an alternate descent.

enjoying a fine break

Enjoying a fine break before resuming our descent.

i love rogers pass

Illecillewaet Glacier; I love Rogers Pass!
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