| This
peak is also called Kadoona Mountain, it is the highest of the
ExCoelis 5-peak complex. We followed the Siffleur Falls Trail and
ascended the
drainage between Ardennes and Rhine, 432643; this creekbed soon
becomes narrow. Travel in the canyon is interesting and not too
difficult but before it opens up, a small waterfall must be negotiated
(crux in the canyon). It is possible to ascend on either sides of the
waterfall and some pitons have been placed climber's left to assist.
Beyond the canyon, follow the furthest drainage up to the Stan
Waters-Rhine Col; the first drainage also can be used but a traverse to
the col then
ensues. From the col, we ascended the north-east facing gully to the
summit ridge; note that this is a sustained class 4 scramble (about 100
meters) with serious exposure. Once on the ridge, the summit is in
sight to the north-west. It's necessary to dip down slightly on the
west side before gaining the true summit, a final crux segment precedes
the top. |
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As
seen from Ardennes Peak, two gullies lead to the Stan Waters-Rhine Col;
the one on the left is better.
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From
Normandy Peak it's easier to see the steep sidehill that follows the
first gully, hence why the gully on the left (furthest) is better.
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| Scramble: RT
14.0; 5.25 up.
When Fabrice and I ventured onto
the summit of Stan Waters Peak, we noticed a sustained gully that
appeared to lead to the summit ridge of Rhine Peak; that east facing
gully was snow-filled at the time and seemed steep but feasible. Some
research on the internet didn't reveal much information on Rhine other
than a trip report from Rick Collier on Bivouac (of course) and a
failed attempt
from Eric Coulthard trying his route. The route Rick describes is on
the western aspect of the mountain and it's unclear exactly where he
went on the complex west face (especially when you don't have access to
the whole trip report) but he mentions intricate route finding being
necessary. When we decided to give this objective a try, we were
curious to investigate the east facing gully we had seen from Stan
Waters; we were already familiar with the approach to the Stan
Waters-Rhine Col. We invited Charles on this exploratory outing. The
hike in was quick and the trekking in the canyon was as interesting as
I remembered. When we got to the little waterfall (crux of the canyon),
Charles went climber's left while Fab and I climbed the right hand
side. Beyond there, the drainage widens, we continued up the draw
towards the col. By now the mist had lifted revealing blue
sky
and a sea of valley cloud, it was quite beautiful. We reached the col
in good time and had a decent break before heading towards our gully.
From the col, the gully looks daunting; I was hoping that once my nose
was against it, it wouldn't appear so intimidating. It's fair to say it
looked more difficult than anticipated... Once at its base, we
discussed the best line of ascent for the part we could see. I went
second but soon reached a point where I felt uncomfortable, the
exposure was difficult to ignore. I went back down. I stared up and
wondered why it was I couldn't ascend; it didn't seem to be that out of
my skill set... After talking with the guys and staring at the gully
for a while, I decided to leave my pack behind and give it another go.
I knew we had a rope and that was a deciding factor for me; I was aware
that even if I climbed the long class 4 gully, chances are I wouldn't
have the headspace to downclimb it. Anyway, climbing the gully was the
most difficult scrambling I've ever done and required all my wits,
confidence and "credits" for exposure. I was borderline "freaked out"
and didn't look down at all. Once on the summit ridge with the top in
sight, I felt no relief; I didn't want to go back down that way, even
with the rope... Now that I was there though, I picked up my spirit and
continued to the top that also required negotiating a crux.
Reaching the top was quite the feat. I suggested we look for Rick
Colliers' route on the western side, I would come back tomorrow for my
pack... Fab and Charles knew I was nervous and agreed to have
a
look for a different descent route. We started down the western face
but got cliffed out. We explored different avenues off to the side of
the drainage but nothing seemed to lend itself to a possible way down
to the Elbe-Rhine Col. With more discussion we came to the conclusion
we had to go back up and descend the gully we had ascended. I felt ill
at the thought of that but I had to trust that my partners could secure
my descent and their own. When we reached the top of the summit ridge,
we were greeted with dark clouds and thunder to the east; are you
kiddin', we didn't need that kinda haste... Fab rigged an anchor on a
flake and built a harness with the one end of the rope and down I went.
I sat out on a safer spot until the guys downclimbed to me. We repeated
that operation 5 times with the 30-meter rope, Charles even opted for a
belay several times. As if all of this wasn't enough, a 5-pound rock
came barreling down and hit me just above the knee; by the
time the guys reached me, swelling had set in and I could barely bend
my leg. I was lucky the rock wasn't bigger and that it avoided my knee.
Once we were down from the gully, we had another break just to relax
before the rest of the descent. I took some pain meds and waited for
them to take effect. The plod back wasn't too bad, I managed well. I
did feel like I pushed too hard compromising safety, I had mixed
emotions about the success of this ascent. Anyway, can't change what is
done but I can warn that this gully is not to be taken lightly!
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The
enticing view of Rhine's eastern gully from Stan Waters Peak.
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The
second bridge over the Siffleur River on our way to the Siffleur Falls
Trail.
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Looking
at Ardennes (left), Rhine (center) and Elbe Peaks.
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Sightseeing
on the popular trail.
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Off
the trail and along the creekbed.
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The
drainage narrows.
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Interesting
hiking through the canyon.
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Charles
waits atop the crux waterfall.
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Fabrice
coming up from climber's right of the waterfall.
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Beyond
the crux, the canyon opens up.
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Hiking
in the mist.
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Climbing
up the closest gully; fun until we have to sidehill higher up! We came
down the furthest gully.
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Out
of the valley cloud.
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Sidehilling
to the col.
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Looking
at Ardennes Peak.
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At
the col with our access gully in view.
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A
closer look doesn't reveal the true nature of the beast yet.
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From
the start of the ascent, the exposure is hard to ignore.
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Bloody
hell, what am I getting into?... no more pics of the climb as we're too
busy focusing on the task...
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On
the summit ridge with the summit ahead (center).
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Dipping
down a little on the western aspect.
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A
final crux precedes the top after gaining the saddle on my left.
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At
the top, well son of a bitch!!!
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Abraham
Lake beyond Ardennes and Normandy Peaks.
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Unsuccessfully
scoping out an alternate descent with Elbe Peak (left) and the North
Saskatchewan River below.
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Charles
comes down the saddle after negotiating the summit crux (unseen).
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Charles
being lowered down.
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The boys
waiting to make sure I make it down safely after sustaining a leg
injury due to rockfall and taking Oxycodone.
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Coping
well, can't feel my injury anymore...
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Weather
is moving in as we near the canyon.
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The
waterfall is just ahead.
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Looking
down the crux, we've elected to rap down.
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This
is still a delicate operation on the slick rock.
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Better
late than never...
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