| Ref: Rocky
Mountain Ramblers Association |
|
 |
|
|
After sidehilling
along
Silverhorn Creek, above the canyon, we near the gravel flats. |
Alpine
climb: RT 17.0; 9.5 up. We noticed this prominent peak on
a trip up Conical Peak two weeks ago, the summit wasn't labeled on the
map. The connecting ridge from Conical's access draw appeared to offer
a
route over a glacier and a sub peak. Once at home, Fabrice
quickly found out its name looking at Google Earth. During the week, my
jaw dropped when I saw a trip report on Quill Peak pop up on the
Rambler's site; I couldn't believe
the
timing, the objective became a priority! We decided to stick to our
plan and attempt this lengthy trip despite a significant snowfall over
the Kananaskis and Continental Divide. We figured the snow
would have mostly melted with the latent heat and a
warm day on saturday. Jay and Charles signed up for this long schlep
and met us at the Silverhorn Campground. We left at daybreak, retracing
our way up Silverhorn Creek for a second time in just
two weeks, like a déjà vu. There was some snow in the upper draw;
already
consolidated and firm, it offered a good alternative to loose scree
encountered on the way to the connecting ridge. We aimed for the
glacier while avoiding going over the highpoint and put the crampons
on. The glacier was snow-covered and we could see some big crevasses
here
and there. Fabrice went ahead probing as he went,
we did come across a couple of holes that required contouring. Once off
the glacier, we climbed the gentle slopes that lead to the prominent
sub
peak. We found the best place to scramble down the steep blocky terrain
on the east side and continued over a minor bump. From there, we
weaved through interesting outcrops before reaching the rugged bump
with the goat traverse. A couple of moderate steps
are needed to
surmount a short steep bit at first, then we picked our way across.
Beyond the traverse, the easy
summit plod is all that remains. The terrain offers pleasant hiking but
seems to never end... It's fair to say, we were very happy to see the
summit ahead. We sat for a good long break, Charles even had a
snooze. Unfortunately, we knew we had a loooong return and couldn't
linger
eternally. The Ramblers mentioned there was no register so Fab placed
one. Backtracking went well, the prominent sub peak seemed shorter
to climb than anticipated and the glacier was enjoyable. Beyond there,
we were hard-pressed to make ground before dark. We managed to reach
treed terrain where we followed the intermittent trail by
headlamp. Fabrice did a great job keeping to the trail, leading us with
little hesitation. This trip is lengthy but the reward is great and it
has a bit of everything. Two thumbs up!
|
|
 |
|
The access drainage
comes into
view on the left. |
|
 |
|
Traversing above a
rockband to
reach the drainage. |
|
 |
|
The connecting ridge
between
Quill and Conical Peaks is snowy. |
|
 |
|
Getting close to the
headwall. |
|
 |
|
Further up the
headwall, several
options exist. |
|
 |
|
Breaking into the
sun as we climb
to the ridge crest. |
|
 |
|
It is possible to
ascend these
slopes for Conical Peak. |
|
 |
|
|
The sun-affected
snow cooled
overnight and is quite firm. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Looking back. |
|
|
 |
|
|
The connecting ridge
to Conical
Peak. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Crampons on for the
snow-covered
glacier. |
|
|
 |
|
|
The objective and a
prominent sub
peak on the right. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Probing every step
of the way. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Several fair-sized
crevasses
along the way. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Dropping down the
steep
embankment of the glacier. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Easy ascent to the
prominent sub
peak. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Top of the sub peak
with still a
good distance to go. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Scrambling down
blocky terrain to
the minor bumps ahead. |
|
|
 |
|
|
The bump on the left
has the
"goat traverse" about 2/3 of the way up. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Up the first minor
bump. |
|
|
 |
|
|
The second bump with
the "goat
traverse" from the first bump. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Moderate scrambling
up a steep
bit to gain the traverse. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Looking back. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Picking our way
across. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Finally on the
summit ridge. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Synchronized
climbing. |
|
|
 |
|
|
We sure have come a
long way! |
|
|
 |
|
|
Well-earned summit
views! |
|
|
 |
|
|
Looking north past
the cairn,
check out Fab's little video! |
|
|
 |
|
|
Western view through
the smoke. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Heading down. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Not looking forward
to climbing
the sub peak on the right... |
|
|
 |
|
|
Back down to the
saddle between
the bumps. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Ascending the blocky
sub peak
again with Quill Peak in the background. |
|
|
 |
|
|
View south with
Conical Peak from
the sub peak. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Putting crampons
back on for the
glacier. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Backtracking. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Some impressive
crevasses. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Zig-zagging between
holes. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Mount Weed in the
smoke. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Descending from the
ridge.
|
| Back to home page |
|
|