President, The
elevation: 3,138 m. height gain: 1,835 m.
area: Yoho Park,BC map 82 N/7-10
2001-Jul


Ref: Sean Dougherty's Selected Alpine Climbs.
ascent gully


Approaching the ascent gully.
Alpine climb: Awesome challenging climb with our buddy Val. We left early and made good time on the approach from the Emerald Lake side. Progress up the snow gully was slowed when it came time to climb on the rock above, climber's right. Val led a 5th class pitch and set an anchor (some pitons exist). We hiked until the terrain becomes solid bedrock that resembles many staggered rows of small steps. We aimed for the toe of the glacier. Once on the glacier the travelling was fast and even faster when the weather started to move in. At the col, the summit was barely visible, we set off quickly and soon reached the top. It was too bad the view was obscured but we still hung out a little to enjoy the feat. We even got buzzed by a hummingbird while sitting at the cairn! Attempting The Vice at this point seemed irrational. The way down was nice and the atmosphere was light; that is until I started down the rock steps on the bedrock. The steepness and length of the slope got to me and I froze. Fab, ahead of me, had to calm me down and tell me where to place my feet. I was hyperventilating and holding back tears. Val was at the bottom having a smoke, enjoying the comedy! I eventually made it down without a scuff and truly embraced rappelling back down to the snow gully.
a little closer

Another look at the gully.

the crux

The 5th class pitch, this picture was taken coming down.

emerald lake


Looking down the glacier from the col.


summit stretch


Summit ahead somewhere in the fog.


top of president


At the top with little visibility but great company!
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