| Mount McDougall is
often ascended as
part of a traverse from either Volcano Peak (south-west ridge)
or Old
Baldy Mountain (north-west ridge). It can also easily be accessed from
its west basin. Take the Evan Thomas Creek Trail, which leads to the
Old Baldy Trail. The
latter trail runs along a creek, it is followed to a fork
marked by a small waterfall, 348397. The east fork goes to
McDougall's
west
basin. Further up that fork, we crossed on the south side of the
drainage to reach the west slopes and summit ridge. |
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Sections of the Evan
Thomas Trail are washed away. |
| Scramble: RT
9.5; 5.0 up. Mount
McDougall is not a difficult destination but it gave us a run for our
money! It took us a couple of tries before we finally reached the top.
The first attempt was during winter via Volcano Peak; we turned around
on
the connecting ridge due to unsurpassable cornices on a narrow section.
A second attempt in spring saw us abort our plod near the head of the
west basin
because of avalanche hazard. This time, we figured the snow wasn't
sufficient to be a hindrance; we chose to approach from the drainage
again. We were shocked to see the undercut banks on the initial part of
the trail; the recent massive flood has left its mark... The Old Baldy
Trail also has parts washed away but we were able to proceed along the
drainage to the fork with little difficulty. We continued up the east
fork, it was easy to deal with the minimal amount of snow; a
great improvement from our last visit. Near the head of the
draw, we crossed the creek to its south side and ascended to
treeline. Finally, the sun was upon us and it felt warm; with no clouds
in
sight, we hiked up
the upper west slopes. We made it to the top in good spirits, relieved
to be successful
this time! There was no wind so we lazed atop for a while. We waited on
a person whom made it across the south-west ridge with much hesitation;
after congratulating him, we started descending the same way we came.
Returning was pleasant, we enjoyed the perfect weather well
into the afternoon. We're grateful for this fine October day
in the mountain! |
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A cairn indicates
the Old Baldy Trail turn off. |
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Following the
drainage towards the fork. |
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At the fork with the
dry waterfall at the right margin. |
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Travelling climber's
left of the east fork. |
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We crossed over to
the south side of the drainage before the upper draw. |
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Looking back. |
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At treeline. |
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Manageable snow
depth in the upper draw. |
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Looking back again. |
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North-west summit
ridge. |
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North-western view. |
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Eastern view from the ridge. |
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Last stretch. |
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At the top. |
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The south-west ridge
leading to Volcano Peak. |
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Leaving the summit
with Old Baldy Mountain in the background. |
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Volcano Peak from
the draw. |
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Backtracking in the
trees. |
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Travelling on the
sun-baked side. |
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Old Baldy Ridge in
front of us. |
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