McBeath, Mount GR:111968

elevation: 2,884 m. height gain: 1,370 m.
area: Golden,BC map 82 N/7

Head towards the Blaeberry River and up Redburn FSR, 018021. After the 6 marker the road becomes rougher with several washouts to cross; a 4x4 or ATV is necessary from that point. There's a major intersection about half way between the 7 and 8 markers, take the right branch. We were unable to cross the fourth washout, 079982, and ended up backtracking a little to turn around and park. We walked to just before the bridge, 083976, and bushwhacked through deadfall up the cutblock climber's left of the drainage. Higher up we came across an old overgrown road (slightly visible on Google Earth) which happens to traverse towards the draw between McBeath and Redburn. We aimed for this road upon return to avoid the deadfall. After losing the road we crossed an aldery avalanche slope and came out of the trees. The ascent drainage was now in sight. We crossed the creek on a snow bridge and ascended it climber's right. Near bluffs we traversed left towards the main drainage (through nasty shrubs). From there it was straightforward and quite enjoyable. We hiked into the draw, 103979 and climbed up the furthest slope into the back of the draw. Eventually we ended up on the north ridge. Fab and Link set up there, 200 m. from the top. I climbed further up on the ridge quite aware of the big overhanging cornice above me. I then quickly traversed to the summit ridge to the right of a small gendarme, fairly close to the top. The actual summit is about thirty feet from what appeared to be the top, 111968, not much of a cairn on it. It is easily attained but it is not very spacious, it only stands 3 m. taller than the southern summit. Coming down we made sure to start traversing at the right place in the drainage (before entering back in the forest) in order to find that old road; Fab built a big cairn in the drainage and flagged a tree pink and green. Aim for 091977 and 088977 which is where we met up with the road. The road led us back to the bridge, 083976. The beginning of the road is not obvious; at the bridge, it climbs up (looks like an eroded slope) before veering left and it is very overgrown.
coming out of the trees

Coming out of the trees, the ascent drainage.

into the draw

Above the ascent drainage into the draw.

up the back of the draw

In the back of the draw we proceeded left and around.


Looking back, across is Hedberg Peak.
Scramble: RT 8.5; 4.75 up. Awesome to have been able to make it, we had our doubts when we saw the washouts on the road. The crawl up the cutblock through deadfall defied optimism. We kept at it and eventually came out of the trees near the ascent drainage. From there it was more enjoyable, a pleasant hike to the north ridge. Lincoln did well on the snow but was not a good candidate for the last part; so Fab remained with the pooch. He had a good snooze while I trudged to the top.
traverse to summit ridge

The traverse to the summit ridge from the north ridge. Notice the cornice above left.

south summit

South summit from the true summit.

ski hill

The ski hill across the valley and Moberly Peak, right of center.

s.w. ridge

South-west ridge, a possible ascent!?


A better cairn on the lower point we thought to be the top. Nice view of Redburn Peak, left of center.

true summit

The true summit from the small cairn on the lower point.

split creek

Looking back down on the north ridge and Split Creek below.
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