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Ref: Andrew Nugara's More scrambles in the Canadian Rockies 2nd edition
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Leaving the access road and hiking Goat's Eye ski out.
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Scramble:
RT 6.5; 3.5 up. I was invited to a birthday party in Bragg Creek on
friday; so after work, I drove there and took saturday off to go
scrambling with Marta. As the week progressed, the forecast changed and
became increasingly unstable for the weekend. Marta and I both agreed
to put off our trip for another weekend. On saturday I woke up and had
a couple of coffees with Wendy before leaving Bragg Creek. I was very
indecisive about what I would do next but I had made a plan B before
leaving Golden and I had brought my rain gear along with me. The
forecast wasn't promising, rain and thunderstorms throughout the day
pretty much everywhere. As I drove through Banff, the cloud ceiling was
low but the sky appeared bright and it wasn't raining yet. I then
decided to drive up the Sunshine Village access road and attempt Mount
Howard Douglas. I didn't have much to lose, it was still early and I
had taken a day off to go hiking anyway. As I started to walk the
access road it started to drizzle, I put on my rain gear and carried
on. I was hoping to hitch a ride to Goat's Eye but there was no
vehicles that came up the road; after an hour, I reached the mid
station. I continued along the lower ski run to where it bends and
ascends towards the lift; from there, a very short bushwhack leads to
the Eagle Basin. I hiked to my objective which was engulfed in low
cloud. I knew where to start my ascent but I couldn't verify anything
as I had forgotten the route description, map and GPS in the truck....
I was slightly hungover and disorganized... Anyway, I figured I might
as well proceed since it wasn't raining too hard yet and the clouds
didn't look like they could produce lightning. I could only see
about 40' in front of me but I remembered that the route went up a
gully and then traversed on a ledge. I just climbed the path of least
resistance, it was pretty straightforward. Higher up, I couldn't make
out where that possible traverse might be; I continued until I was
against the rockwall of the summit block, that's when I noticed I could
climb onto a scree ledge. I was still unsure that was the traverse
because visibility was greatly reduced but it made sense to give it a
try and see where it led. The wide scree ledge took me to a gully that
led to the summit ridge. It was snowing now. I was quite thrilled, my
summit bid looked promising. I scrambled the summit ridge and reached a
short crux that precedes the summit. I got there minutes later and
enjoyed a fine stay despite having no view. I felt happy that I made it
despite the odds. Returning was uneventful. Drizzle did turn to rain
but I still made to the parking lot without being soaked. I'm glad I
gambled and went on this trip, sometimes you just get lucky!!!
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The ski area boundary in Eagle Basin, aiming for the scree that breaches the rockband at cloud level (center).
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As long as I can see ahead, I'm good to go!
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Following the path that reveals itself....
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Luckily the route is straightforward.
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The scree ledge traverse wasn't visible until I was against the summit block ahead.
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The scree ledge handrails the rockwall of the summit block.
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At the other end of the ledge, a gully leads to the summit ridge.
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Summit ridge.
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Moderately easy crux just before the top.
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At the top!
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Time to go.
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Backtracking on the summit ridge.
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The scree ledge traverse is easy to spot skier's right.
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Lookout Mountain hosts some fine ski runs like Delirium Dive and the Shoulder.
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This pinnacle reminds me of a dog barking at the moon.
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The pinnacle doesn't look like a barking dog anymore.....
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Rain gear is not the most comfy but I'm dry!
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In the abyss.
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This would be a beautiful fall objective with yellow Larch trees.
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Re-entering ski area boundary; good to know!
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Back on the access road.
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