Ref: Drew
and Mark in the Canadian Rockies.
In
the springtime, with proper conditions, it is possible to ascend a
straightforward snow slope and traverse to an upper bowl that leads to the top. The route bypasses the ramp (scramble
route)
climber's left. |
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At the trailhead for
Pinto Lake. |
| Scramble: RT 11.5; 6.0 up. I
remember googling Elliot Peak right after our trip up Mount Ernest Ross
last year. I was delighted to find out a scramble route exists on the
north side. We planned to try an ascent this spring; as we researched
it, we came across a week-old trip report on Gravsports. After reading
Tyler's report, we decided (with enthusiasm) to try it next. Fab and I
love
springtime snow ascents; this alternate route was very appealing! We
were embracing the thought of a lighter pack but still, we brought
snowshoes, crampons and the usual avalanche gear, just in case. When we
left the trailhead, around 7:30 AM, the sky was clear and the air
crisp. We had no trouble recognizing the second drainage. We climbed
the embankment, climber's right, and followed a faint trail. Shortly
thereafter, deadfall obstructs the path and random bushwhacking
ensues. We navigated through the fallen trees, with the creek
remaining within earshot. As we gained height, the convoluted mess
diminished. Then we noticed a sliver of snow though the trees, we
veered towards the drainage. It was filled with old avalanche debris;
this snow highway would grant quick easy access to treeline! At its
terminus, we had to traverse over to the main draw, leaving the
consolidated snow behind. To our surprise, except for the odd posthole,
we stayed atop the firm snowpack without snowshoes. We reached the draw
and soon stood in the North Basin. Feeling slightly hard-pressed to take
advantage of the firm snow, we continued to the base of the ascent
slope.
After donning crampons and taking our axe out, we started to climb. The
great snow conditions and weather made the ascent very pleasant.
Following a short traverse to the upper bowl (this section requires
care), we resumed the long steady plod to the summit ridge. From the
ridge, we stood minutes away from the top. The view towards Abraham
Lake was reduced because of the cornice but the other quadrants
revealed endless chains of mountains; I felt elated.
We lounged by the summit cairn for an hour, aware of
deteriorating snow conditions... Hence, we
started heading down before too late. Descending was fast like lightning! We glissaded
from top to bottom, what a thrill, I loved it!!! We stopped by a grassy
tree isle and took a fine, boots-off break. Upon returning, we
expected the snowpack to be much softer. Fab decided to traverse higher
on the (now shaded) mountainside of Sentinel to avoid the flatter treed
terrain. This was a good beeline to the access gully and plodding on
the avalanche debris eliminated postholing. Then we hit the snow
highway and the rest was uneventful, yet I felt quite satisfied as I
walked back to the car. All and all, another fantastic day out in the
mountains with Fab! |
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The "ghetto bridge"
at the second
drainage indicates the start of the ascent. We bushwhacked up on the
embankment, climber's right of the creek. |
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Still well below
treeline, the drainage is filled with old avalanche debris. |
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A pleasant
continuous jaunt to treeline. |
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The path ends
againts Sentinel Mountain's north-east flank. |
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We traverse over to
the main draw, climber's left. |
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The snow is firm and
snowshoes are not required. |
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In the North Basin,
right on, right on! |
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Just about to don crampons and get the axe out. |
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Great conditions for
this moderately steep snow slope. |
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A short traverse
leads to the upper bowl. |
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Looking down, notice
the ramp (scramble route) to the left. |
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This section
requires caution. |
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A couple of steps on
rock and ice. |
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The long upper bowl
almost reaches the summit. |
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Finally on the
summit ridge, looking south-west. |
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Last short bit to
the top. |
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Fab arrives at the
top, the background is stunning. |
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Allstones Peak
(left) and Abraham Mountain (left center). |
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The twin peaks of
Mount Ernest Ross. |
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Fab is lounging on
the summit cairn. |
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The upper bowl
offers a sweet uninterrupted glissade. |
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The short traverse. |
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More glissading,
whoot, whoot! |
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Down in a jiffy! |
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A grassy spot ahead
is ideal for a "boots-off" break. |
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The snow has
softened a lot; luckily, we managed minimal postholing. |
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The access drainage
is just beyond the trees ahead. |
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Smooth sailing with
Coral Ridge in front of us! |
| Back
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