Ref: Chic Scott's Summits and Icefields.
Via Ayesha Glacier. From the BC side (winter): follow
the Blaeberry Road to the start of the Blaeberry FSR. Park 100 m. past
the Blaeberry River Bridge at the recreation site, 019022. Follow the
Blaeberry FSR to Ensign Creek FSR (Amiskwi), kilometer 35. Turn right
across the bridge and follow up the switchbacks to the Collie Creek
turn-off, 212248, turn left. The rest is not indicated on
the topo map, the trail is seldom used. Inquire locally. The way is not
obvious, this is only a quick rendition! Shortly after crossing Collie
Creek, a sharp left leads up to a cut-block which needs to be
climbed. A traverse in forested terrain follows. Soon thereafter,
Ayesha Flats
come into view and the
moraine is up ahead. The moraine often appears wind blasted and
denuded; the upper access is sheltered and hidden from view. The first
pitch can
be the crux; it is the longest with lots of rocks and
variable snow conditions. The last section is short and steep;
definitely advanced terrain for
snowmobilers. Video of our access. From the top of the moraine, the
transition on Ayesha
Glacier is easy. Huge holes are present on the glacier. Remember, the
Yoho National Park boundary is not far ahead.
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Crossing Collie
Creek, you don't want to get stuck. |
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The
moraine is now in sight. |
| Ski mountaineering: RT: 5.0;
3.25 up (from camp). Finally, we close the book on Mount Collie. It
started in 2004 when Fab and I contemplated doing Collie from the BC
side. We planned a route and numerous recon trips, with dogs, followed.
Eventually we had established a good snowmobile trail to the Ayesha
Flats. I recall going up on Ayesha Glacier in 2005 and envisioned the
day we would come again to ascend Collie. Well, we decided to commit to
this trip in January this year. We dedicated a couple of weekends to
breaking the trail past Collie Creek. After that, it was a waiting game
for the best weather. We were hoping to take Fab's snowmobile up the
glacier. The moraine offers challenging riding and as conditions
change, there's never any guarantee of getting there. I decided
to leave my sled behind and opted for my skis. Fab barely made it up
the first pitch, thrown from one boulder to another and having to
adjust "his line". I didn't think he would make it but he
did. He waited for me to catch up, then he tackled the final section.
The last climb was fairly easy so he returned to grab my pack.
At the top of the moraine, the hardship of the day was behind us. Fab
strapped my skis on his sled and we rode in tandem to the Park
boundary. I was dropped off, along with my skis and waited for him to
return with his own stuff. Wow, here we are, early in the afternoon at
our camp location, not that tired! The wind was light but
annoying. After the sunset, we retreated to our tent. The following
morning the wind was even more frustrating. By 9 AM we were off to
Collie. The sun felt great and we soon warmed up. We quickly reached
the crevassed climb to Collie and joined an old up-track. We continued
towards Collie's south-east bowl and there it was, the famous cornice.
The climb to the summit ridge is nice. We traded skis for crampons and
proceeded on the ridge. The final section of the ridge requires
stepping onto the north slopes; it was slightly unnerving on the way
back down! The summit view is impressive. We wish we could have stayed
longer. After carefully retracing our steps down the exhilarating
ridge, we prepared for "survival" skiing on variable wind affected
snow. I almost bailed, going too fast with loose boots; I guess I
overestimated my snowplow... Without having to put our skins back on,
we followed our track back to the "boulder". While packing our gear, we
watched two groups ascend Mount Gordon. The wind died down and we felt
happy and content. Fab strapped some of my load on his sled and down
the glacier we went. Very much to my surprise, I had an amazing ski
down the moraine, the best of the whole trip by far! Now at my sled,
the trip sadly feels like it's come to an end. Thanks to Lisa at the
Bed and Biscuit for being on stand-by so many times! |
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Fab made it up the
first and sketchiest part of the moraine. |
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I'm on skis, the
wisest option for me. |
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I meet up with Fab
for the last section of the moraine. |
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I finish with no
pack (a first) as Fab relays it to the top. |
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Ayesha Glacier. |
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Easy transition on
the glacier, we rode in tandem on the snowmobile to our camp location. |
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Fab pulled a carve
at the Park's boundary and parked. |
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Enjoying the
afternoon on the "boulder". |
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Our camp and Mount
Collie in the background. |
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In a probed
perimeter, at the base of Mount Ayesha. |
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Leaving
the camp the following morning. |
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The
sun is rising above Mount Gordon. |
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Massive
Mount Baker looks entirely different from here. |
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Nearing
the crevassed ascent. |
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We
join an old up-track near the crevasses. |
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Veering
towards Mount Collie. |
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Looking
back onto the Wapta and the classic approach. |
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Collie's
south-east bowl was very wind affected. |
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Mounts
Gordon (left) and Balfour (right of center). |
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On
the ridge, we leave our skis. |
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The
famous cornice ahead, a group had recently climbed to the summit. |
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I
follow behind, quite thrilled. |
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South-east
view into Yoho National Park. |
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The
top, complete with a rod. The view is, of course, impressive. |
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From
the top we can see our camp (circled). |
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Time
to head back down. |
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The
north side of the summit ridge is exhilarating, even unnerving. |
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A
last look at the final ridge section. |
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Cornices on both
sides of the ridge. |
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Looking
back at our approach, already well below the top. |
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Mount
Ayesha and the "wind scoop". |
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The
glacier's ambassadors wait for our departure. |
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The
moraine offered the best skiing of the whole trip! |
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