Ref: Sean Dougherty's
Selected
Alpine Climbs and Alan Kane's Scrambles in the Canadian
Rockies. |
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The start of the
hike in to Chephren Lake. |
Alpine climb: RT 9.0; 5.5 up (from bivy). WOW! WOW! WOW! The weather forecast
wasn't looking great 40% POP on Friday and 60% risk of thundershowers
in the afternoon for Saturday. This organized trip with the Alpine Club
had been planned for a while so we were quite keen to give it a try and
hoped for the best. We met the trip leader, Brian Merry, in Lake
Louise: nobody else signed up. We caravanned to Waterfowl Lakes
campground. Right after leaving the car, we had to take shelter from
driving rain at the trailhead sign; we remained optimistic, it will
pass. Indeed it did clear up and allowed us good travelling around the
back of the lake. We set-up camp near the first creek crossing, then
the rain came. Under a tarp, we made good of the situation. The rain
dissipated as the evening progressed and by night, it was clear. We
headed out before 7 AM, up the moraine towards the alpine route: the
south facing snow slope to the west ridge. The ascent was enjoyable and
very exciting with good snow conditions and great leadership skills
from Brian. This is the most challenging snow climb Fab and I have
done. When we reached the col, nice weather was holding up but darker
clouds were forming; we didn't linger. The plod to the summit was
straightforward and firm along the ridge. It was amazing to glance at
the true summit, overhanging, with clouds forming on the sheer side.
Our stay at the top was brief: 15 minutes, we had to get down the
mountain before the oncoming thundershowers. Brian led us down the
scrambling route. With some coaxing and care, I made it through the
difficult sections to the rappel station. We rappelled down on our rope
(there's an old rope there) and resumed our descent towards the
remaining snow along the grassy slopes. It was very exhilarating; I
can't imagine trying to find my way up through there. The snow offered
a quick glissade down to the grasses where we started to get pummeled
with hail. The clouds behind Howse were quite impressive. By the time
we hit the snow below (close to the moraine), lightning was occurring.
The weather let up back at the bivy, great timing for us to take a
well-deserved break and pick up the rest of our gear. Starting up again
along the lake, through the boulders, we were not spared after all. It
started raining so hard that we had to hunker down under the tarp.
Sitting awkwardly on the wet boulders we hoped it would ease. It
didn't. After about 30 minutes, we decided to up and go. It did
eventually ease up, but wet shrubs and a soggy trail insured saturation
point was retained! The thought of getting rid of our wet clothes
propelled us at a steady pace. We reached our vehicles just before 8
PM. Awesome trip; very fortunate to have been able to squeeze it in.
Thanks a lot Brian; we couldn't have done it without you! |
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Going around
the lake. |
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Our 5 star bivy site. |
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The moraine. |
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The start of the
south snow slope. |
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Looking back down
the lower slope and some open slots. |
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The lower slope
steepens. |
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Before the traverse
to the upper snow slope. |
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Looking down again. |
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The traverse around
to the upper slope. |
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The upper slope is
steep. |
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Angling towards the
ridge at the top of the snow slope. |
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The summit ridge. |
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True summit. |
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White Pyramid. |
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At the top,
yahoooooo! First in the register this season. |
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Traverse towards the
noticeable trail in the black scree. |
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Heading towards the
gully. |
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Making our way down
a gully. |
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Traversing towards
the lower gully. |
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The rappel station. |
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The grassy slopes
are a welcome sight. |
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Dark clouds behind
Howse Peak. |
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Saturation point
reached well before the parking lot. |
Back
to home page |
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