Brewster, Mount (Brewski Loop)
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| elevation: 2,859 m. | height gain: 1,250 m. |
| area: Banff/Bow Valley,AB |
map 82 O/4 |
| 2017-Jun-03 |
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route we took goes north along the 40 Mile Creek Trail passed
Cockscomb Campground (FM-10) and Mount Brewster's west-south-west gully
(Alan Kane's scrambling route). We ascended the following
major west-facing drainage just beyond a remote, unofficial backcountry
campsite. From the upper bowl, we climbed moderately steep snow using
two gullies to gain the north ridge. The north ridge grants moderate
scrambling to the summit. We came down Alan Kane's scrambling route. |
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| Leaving Mount Norquay's parking lot. |
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| Scramble:
RT 11.0; 5.75 up. Mount Brewster caught my attention after reading So
Nakagawa's trip report.
I was waiting for another write up to come out to shed light on the
ascent, it was difficult to make out the route and it seemed somewhat
complex due to numerous gullies and ridge crossings. When Paul Zizka
posted a trip report this spring, it sparked interest in the scrambling
community. His account of the outing was appealing, describing the
route as straightforward and pleasant. He took
advantage of great snow conditions in the gully mentioned in Alan
Kane's newest
edition. Raff contacted some people, we met early at Norquay's parking
lot. Another group of Edmonton scramblers happened to be there as well,
I thought they were part of our group. Next thing you know, we
had a huge posse of 9 keen scramblers ready to tackle Mount Brewster. I
knew almost everyone from the internet or from previous trips.
There was a lot of conversing along the approach. We joined and
decided
to continue north past Kane's gully to ascend a major gully. This
undocumented gully appeared straightforward giving access to the
summit's
north ridge. The advantage of this gully is the continuous snow
starting low which minimizes bushwhacking. Beyond
the upper bowl, it offers steep snow
climbing with the option to scramble rock on the side. I thoroughly
enjoyed the
ascent on firm snow, the terrain near the top never exceeds
45˚ but it is steep enough to warrant the use of crampons and an axe.
Once on the summit ridge, the route reveals itself; all
difficulties are bypassed on the west side. During the ascent from the
upper bowl, the posse naturally split into smaller groups as some
of us preferred to stay on snow. We regrouped on the summit before
going down the west ridge. From that ridge, we dipped down into
Kane's west-south-west gully. We glissaded the snow-filled gully right
until a bare bluffy section. At this interruption, we had to traverse
into an adjacent gully to resume our glissade on snow. After the snow,
the descent towards the 40 Mile
Creek Trail was a bit brushy and steep, it made me appreciate our
alternate route up even more. Back on the trail, I hiked in
auto-pilot combating nasal congestion and the symptoms of a head cold.
Despite that, I was really satisfied with today's adventure; the
objective is
outstanding and grants spectacular views. Further more, the weather and
conditions were great. Also worth mention is how lucky we were that
there was no mishaps in our large group and that our ascent route
worked out nicely; a perfect outing! |
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| A nice break at the remote campsite before locating the ascent gully. Picture courtesy of Brett Hill. |
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| On snow, my element! Picture courtesy of Rafal Raffinator. |
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| This snow-filled gully is looking very promising. |
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| Putting on crampons. |
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| Amazing snow ascent all the way to the upper mountain. |
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| The snow is firm and consolidated. |
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| Raff and Callum are enjoying the ascent. |
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| As good as it gets! Picture courtesy of Alison Sekera. |
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| Aiming for the gully in the middle of the pic then the one to the right of it. |
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| Raff and I discussing the gullies ahead. Picture courtesy of Alison Sekera. |
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| Engaging the first gully. |
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| Looking back, the posse is breaking up in smaller groups. |
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| The gully is moderately steep and very pleasant. |
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| Raff is in hot pursuit. |
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| We scooted over to the adjacent gully climber's right. |
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| The traverse coming from the first gully. |
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| Adjacent second gully. |
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| The second gully is a bit steeper but entirely manageable. |
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| An alpine axe and crampons are a must here. Picture courtesy of Rafal Raffinator. |
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| I'm cresting at the top end of the gully. Picture courtesy of Rafal Raffinator. |
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| Raff is all smiles, loving this snow climb. |
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| The north ridge leads to the summit. |
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| Negotiating a short crux to breach a rockband. Picture courtesy of Brett Hill. |
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| A brief moment of excitement. |
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| Travel along the north ridge. |
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| More of the same. |
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| Nearing the summit. |
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| Last steps to the top! |
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| View north along the ascent ridge. |
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| On the summit. Picture courtesy of Brett Hill. |
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| Mount Rundle and the town of Banff in the valley below. |
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| Heading back down via the west ridge and Alan Kane's gully to our left . |
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| Western view towards some of Banff's classic scrambles. |
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| Mount Assiniboine stands out to the south. |
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| Up a snow gully, down another! |
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| Speedy descend no doubt. |
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| Glissading contest. |
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| Raff, you better stop! |
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| End of the line for now. |
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| Traversing to yet another snow-filled gully. |
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| Short scramble and we're back on snow. |
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| Easy peasy with a fine view of Mount Louis (left) and Mount Fifi (center). |
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| Last glimpse, it's hard to pick out the route... |
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| Alder bashing is better on the way down. |
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| The posse, minus myself and Ferenc Jacso. |
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