Afton, Mount (Traverse)

elevation: 2,553 m. height gain: 135 m.
area: Rogers Pass,BC map 82 N/4-5-6

Ref: Bivouac
routes on mount afton

Mount Afton's east ridge (left skyline) and its easier north-west ridge (indicated).
Scramble: RT 11.5 (including Mount Abbott); 1.25 up from Mount Abbott. This scramble does not disappoint; the traverse via the east ridge is exciting and the sights from this viewpoint are breathtaking. Coming down from Mount Abbott requires a bit of route finding to avoid cliffs. Once at the col, it is best to stay close to the ridge crest. Several lines of ascent are likely possible but we mainly climbed near the ridge proper. About midway, Fab followed a short section of very faint trail climber's left of us. I was exceeding my comfort level but still managed to enjoy scrambling on solid, big blocks. Although much shorter and more difficult, the route reminded me of Mount Begbie's summit ridge. I was motivated to make it up the mountain to do the loop, doubting I could come back down this way safely... After a tough section, I was relieved to see the slope angle ease. We continued towards the summit in good spirits; I think we were all happy to have the crux behind us. We stayed at the top for an hour, not wanting to leave... The weather was wonderful; there was no wind, it was warm and sunny. With a promise of another break at the tarn below, we left at a leisurely pace. The north-west ridge is straightforward but far from a scree run! The terrain is blocky and requires careful travel. It is possible to reach the tarn from a high traverse or from lower in the bowl, which is faster. It is worth stopping by the lovely tarn before climbing back to Abbott Ridge. Once on the ridge, we resumed our trip with fun hiking to the main trail. Before rounding Abbott's north end, we paused again to take advantage of the last sunrays. By 6:45 PM, we scooted over the shady side of Abbott Ridge and continued down with no more stops. This outing was fantastic; great company, excellent weather and an exciting scramble made it memorable. If you happen to be in Rogers Pass, I highly recommend this loop!
east ridge

Some difficult scrambling on the east ridge.

leaving mount abbott

Leaving the top of Mount Abbott.

abbott/afton col

Abbott/Afton Col, it's best to stay close to the ridge crest.

good scrambling on solid terrain

Good scrambling on solid terrain.

steep climb

The first half of the ascent is steep!

up big blocks

Picking our way up the big blocks.

traversing to easier rock

Traversing to easier rock.

reefing myself over

Reefing myself over a boulder.

grade lessens

The grade lessens on the upper mountain.

nearing the summit

Yui and I nearing the summit.

abbott ridge below

Abbott Ridge and the tarn below.

last steps before the top

Last steps before the top.


Right on, right on!

summit pose

Awesome pose with Yui, Val and Fab next to Mount Sir Donald.

leaving the top

Leaving the top via the blocky north-west ridge.

mount dawson and feuz peak

Mount Dawson and Feuz Peak (center).

peering over the edge

Fab peers over the edge...

blocky north-west ridge

More blocky terrain.

traversing to the tarn

Dipping in the bowl and traversing high.

faster if you go lower

Fab went lower in the bowl, climbed a short grassy slope and arrived at the lake faster; he's barely visible at the far end.

brilliant tarn

Another nice break at the brilliant tarn.

back on abbott ridge

Back on Abbott Ridge.

the tarn looks like an eye

With the sun's reflection, the tarn looks like an eye.

fun hiking

More fun hiking.

last glimpse

Last glimpse towards Mounts Abbott and Afton.

awesome day

The weather is very nice and the view is phenomenal.

enjoying the last sunrays

Another break, enjoying the last sunrays of the day.

on the shady side

On the shady side of the mountain.
Back to home page