Afton, Mount (Traverse)

elevation: 2,553 m. height gain: 135 m.
area: Rogers Pass,BC map 82 N/4-5-6
2012-Sep-16


Ref: Bivouac routes on mount afton
Mount Afton's east ridge (left skyline) and its easier north-west ridge (indicated).
Scramble: RT 11.5 (including Mount Abbott); 1.25 up from Mount Abbott. This scramble does not disappoint; the traverse via the east ridge is exciting and the sights from this viewpoint are breathtaking. Coming down from Mount Abbott requires a bit of route finding to avoid cliffs. Once at the col, it is best to stay close to the ridge crest. Several lines of ascent are likely possible but we mainly climbed near the ridge proper. About midway, Fab followed a short section of very faint trail climber's left of us. I was exceeding my comfort level but still managed to enjoy scrambling on solid, big blocks. Although much shorter and more difficult, the route reminded me of Mount Begbie's summit ridge. I was motivated to make it up the mountain to do the loop, doubting I could come back down this way safely... After a tough section, I was relieved to see the slope angle ease. We continued towards the summit in good spirits; I think we were all happy to have the crux behind us. We stayed at the top for an hour, not wanting to leave... The weather was wonderful; there was no wind, it was warm and sunny. With a promise of another break at the tarn below, we left at a leisurely pace. The north-west ridge is straightforward but far from a scree run! The terrain is blocky and requires careful travel. It is possible to reach the tarn from a high traverse or from lower in the bowl, which is faster. It is worth stopping by the lovely tarn before climbing back to Abbott Ridge. Once on the ridge, we resumed our trip with fun hiking to the main trail. Before rounding Abbott's north end, we paused again to take advantage of the last sunrays. By 6:45 PM, we scooted over the shady side of Abbott Ridge and continued down with no more stops. This outing was fantastic; great company, excellent weather and an exciting scramble made it memorable. If you happen to be in Rogers Pass, I highly recommend this loop! east ridge
Some difficult scrambling on the east ridge.
leaving mount abbott
Leaving the top of Mount Abbott.
abbott/afton col
Abbott/Afton Col, it's best to stay close to the ridge crest.
good scrambling on solid terrain
Good scrambling on solid terrain.
steep climb
The first half of the ascent is steep!
up big blocks
Picking our way up the big blocks.
traversing to easier rock
Traversing to easier rock.
reefing myself over
Reefing myself over a boulder.
grade lessens
The grade lessens on the upper mountain.
nearing the summit
Yui and I nearing the summit.
abbott ridge below
Abbott Ridge and the tarn below.
last steps before the top
Last steps before the top.
voila!
Right on, right on!
summit pose
Awesome pose with Yui, Val and Fab next to Mount Sir Donald.
leaving the top
Leaving the top via the blocky north-west ridge.
mount dawson and feuz peak
Mount Dawson and Feuz Peak (center).
peering over the edge
Fab peers over the edge...
blocky north-west ridge
More blocky terrain.
traversing to the tarn
Dipping in the bowl and traversing high.
faster if you go lower
Fab went lower in the bowl, climbed a short grassy slope and arrived at the lake faster; he's barely visible at the far end.
brilliant tarn
Another nice break at the brilliant tarn.
back on abbott ridge
Back on Abbott Ridge.
the tarn looks like an eye
With the sun's reflection, the tarn looks like an eye.
fun hiking
More fun hiking.
last glimpse
Last glimpse towards Mounts Abbott and Afton.
awesome day
The weather is very nice and the view is phenomenal.
enjoying the last sunrays
Another break, enjoying the last sunrays of the day.
on the shady side
On the shady side of the mountain.
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