Aconcagua, Cerro

elevation: 6,961 m.	height gain: 4,000 m.
area: Mendoza,Argentina	map 1:25,000 Aconcagua, UTM 19S and Lat/Long Coordinates, Datum WGS84
2024-Dec-15

Ref: INKA Expediciones
		Mount St. Helens is considered the most active volcano in the American Cascades.
Alpine climb: 20 days via Horcones Valley. For every peak-bagger, it's safe to assume there's an objective that's extra meaningful on their bucket list. I've always embraced diverse outings; however, I've often wondered how my little body would fair out on a tall mountain with thin air. At 6,961 m., Aconcagua is an alluring giant; it is the tallest in the Americas. Unlike Mount Everest, it grants a similar high-altitude experience without robbing your bank account and submitting you to near death. In 2017, I tried to organize a trip to Argentina but could not summon enough funds. Knowledge of eminent layoffs at my worksite presented the perfect opportunity; I had enough money and plenty of time off coming over the winter months. I started planning my trip early, choosing INKA, a local Argentinean company known as the Aconcagua Specialists. All I had to do was be fit, have the right equipment, and hope to be one of the 30% of climbers who succeed at reaching the top! My arrival in Mendoza went without a hitch; a representative of INKA picked me up at the airport and drove me to the hotel used by the company. I spent the day trying to sleep in the shade by the pool; I had been up for over 24 hours, and my eyes were burning. I had dinner at the hotel's plaza before returning to my room, where I watched Spanish TV and fell asleep. DAY 01: I walked around the area's green spaces and tourist streets before meeting with the expedition's guide and the other four climbers; our gear was checked over and divided, and we packed some items for the mules to haul directly to Plaza de Mulas. The excitement was setting in; by tomorrow, I'd be en route to Aconcagua Provincial Park.
		While flying over the Andes from Santiago, the tallest mountains are Volcán Tupungato (6,570 m.) on the left and Cerro Aconcagua left of center.

		Visiting green Plazas of Mendoza.

		A lovely water fountain amongst majestic trees at Plaza Italia.

		I'm marveling at the canals that parallel the streets, irrigating the city's 50,000-plus trees; it's hard to believe that Mendoza is in a desert environment that receives about 220 mm of rain annually.

		Enjoying the assortment of flowers, trees, and shrubs while admiring the extensive tile work at Plaza España.

		Plaza España also hosts a magnificent monument.

		Group picture in front of INKA's office.
DAY 02: We got picked up at the hotel lobby. With all our gear loaded in the trailer, we went to INKA's office to pay our tally and receive pertinent information about amenities during the trip. I was thrilled to finally meet Micaela, whom I'd been communicating with for the last 5 months. We drove off after a group picture with the staff in front of the office. Leaving the city of Mendoza behind, the mountains grew big as we neared the Mendoza High Andes International Route 7. This road is fascinating as it winds through tunnels and the high mountain flanks of the Cordillera de los Andes along the Mendoza River; this main highway links Argentina and Chile. It is a popular tourist route, boasting spectacular sites such as the beautiful blue water of the artificial lake formed by the Potrerillos Dam; this hydraulic power plant supplies water to Mendoza vineyards. Further along, Puenta del Inca is the site of a natural bridge of reddish, orange, and yellow colouring caused by sulfurous water. The arch leads to an abandoned spa hotel; this impressive location was declared a natural monument. From there, we were close to Aconcagua Provincial Park; that night, we stayed at an army station. They served us a great dinner, and we retired to a dormitory on a full stomach, anticipating the beginning of the trek.
		We're on our way to the mountains.

		The beautiful blue water of the artificial lake formed by the Potrerillos Dam.

		Stone-built rail tunnel.

		Difunta (deceased) Correa is an unofficial popular saint; the survival of her child while she died of thirst in the desert would have been her first miracle. Cattle keepers and truck drivers create roadside shrines; they leave water bottles as offerings to calm her eternal thirst. Picture courtesy of 1yearinargentina.com

		Cerro Tolosa (5,379 m.) towers over Los Penitentes Ski Resort.

		Before going to the park gate, we dropped off gear at the mule's compound.

		The Compañía de Cazadores de Montaña 8 (military station) is our host for the night.

		From the army station, we walked to the small village of Puente del Inca.

		Puente del Inca (Inca's Bridge) is a provincial natural monument.

		A landslide destroyed the spa resort in 1965; only its small colonial chapel remains.

		The small team includes Facundo from Mendoza, Gregor from South Africa, and Paolo and Marco, brothers from Switzerland (L to R).

		Lovely tourist shops in Puente del Inca's small village.
DAY 03: After a short drive to the park's entrance, we presented our permits before proceeding to the Horcones Valley's trailhead. With enthusiasm, we disembarked the van and quickly got on the way; after a 3-hour trek, we reached Confluencia Camp at 3,390 m. It was great to finally be on our way to Aconcagua while experiencing INKA's hospitality and deluxe facilities.
		Presenting our ascent permit at the park ranger's station.

		Cerro Aconcagua looms over all from the start.

		The Laguna (lagoon) de Horcones trail is wide and smooth until its end at the bridge.

		Looking back over a lagoon towards Soldado Soler (4,440 m.) and Cerro Quebrada Blanca (4,499 m.) on the left. Snowy Cerro Presenteseracae (4,952 m.) borders Argentina and Chile.

		There are numerous mule trails etched in the landscape.

		Crossing the Horcones River on the bridge built during the making of the film "Seven Years in Tibet".

		Muleteers with their mules are a common sight along the way.

		The trail skirts the steep bank of the Quebrada (ravine) de los Horcones.

		Cerro Tolosa's East Peak, 4,907 m.

		A gravel flat precedes Confuencia Camp.

		Confluencia Camp, 3,390 m.

		The customary reception includes bread, cheese, charcuterie, pastries, and fruit.

		The dormitory is spacious and comfortable.

		Afternoon cloud cover rolls in but doesn't produce any rain.

		This remarkable unnamed mountain reminds me of Cirrus Mountain, one of my favorites in the Canadian Rockies.

		The south-eastern rib of Cerro Tolosa is backlit by a fiery sky.

		Cerro Tolosa wears a veil of fire at dusk.
DAY 04: We hiked to Francis Point (4,000 m.) to view Aconcagua's impressive South Wall; this side trip also helped our body acclimatize to the altitude. Back at camp, we rested 2 hours before our first medical check-up. To my surprise, my blood pressure was high. I was shocked as I have no history of this condition; furthermore, I felt strong during the hike to the viewpoint, and I didn't present with signs of altitude sickness. The mountain doctor prescribed a couple of tablets to lower my blood pressure. The following morning, another check-up revealed the efficacity of the tablets; I could continue to Plaza de Mulas.
		On our way to Plaza Francia (4,000 m.) to view Aconcagua's South Wall.

		This hike helps with the acclimatization process.

		The rubble-covered glacier reveals itself as we get closer to Aconcagua's viewpoint.

		Nearing Plaza Francia.

		This scarce vegetation resembles Hens and Chicks (Sempervivum tectorum).

		Standing in front of Aconcagua's impressive South Wall.

		Heading back to Confluencia Camp.
DAY 05: The 8-hour hike to Plaza de Mulas (4,300 m.) was arduous. We travelled 18 kilometers on the flat terrain of the Horcones Valley, hiking around Cerros Mirador and Piramidal to Aconcagua's west side, where the base camp is. Adding to the hardship, we battled strong headwinds that kicked up dust in every uncovered orifice. Just before reaching Plaza de Mulas, we negotiated a steep ascent which sapped whatever energy was left; we were knackered and welcomed rest the following day.
		The following day, we're trekking 18 kilometers to Plaza de Mulas.

		Crossing the Horcones River.

		Playa (beach) Ancha is a long stretch of valley bottom. Ahead are Cerros Sin Nombre (5,154 m.), México (5,020 m.) and Dedos (5,026 m.) (L to R).

		This rock is the first feature granting a windbreak since we left Confluencia.

		Looking back, indeed, we've travelled a looong way!

		As we come around Cerro Piramidal, a sub-peak of Aconcagua, the Horcones Superior Glacier comes into view.

		Looking back at Cerros Sin Nombre (left) and México as we begin the climb above the valley below.

		A pack of mules is returning from Plaza de Mulas.

		Familiar sights from the base camp include Cerro Bonete (5,052 m.) on the left, Cerro Catedral (5,282 m.) on its right, and Cerro Cuerno (5,462 m.) by the glacier.

		These succulent plants are few and far between out here.

		We're all wearing hooded windbreakers, a testament to the windy conditions.

		A short but steep ascent leads to the upper moraines.

		Plaza de Mulas is beyond the crest.

		Base camp finally comes into view.
DAY 06: This rest day was the perfect opportunity to get acquainted with the elaborate tent complex. Plaza de Mulas is the second largest base camp in the world, after Everest base camp. It is, at least for four months, a little city with all the amenities required for a comfortable stay (including showers and WIFI). Depending on its size, every company hires staffers, cooks, porters, and guides to attend their camps; they can range from a few domes to almost 20. The complex hosts an Art Gallery, lounging areas, and Sunday BBQ; it is most likely one of the best places to experience the mountain culture, all under the watchful eyes of the 3-meter-high Andean Condor sculpture. The Incas said: The condor is the link between heaven and earth, and when we climb the mountain, we do so in search of a divinity, which we find in this place and ourselves, as it represents our spirit. I think this does sound about right. We also received our second medical check-up. I was glad to hear my blood pressure was stable because I wanted to climb Cerro Bonete the next day. Sleeping in the dormitory at base camp was comfortable despite getting up twice at night to pee; I expected that inconvenience after drinking over 4 liters of water during the day. I felt good, other than a slight loss of appetite.
		Enjoying a well-deserved rest day at base camp in the sun.

		In 2024, The Aconcagua Provincial Park celebrated its 40th anniversary by placing a sculpture of an Andean Condor at Plaza de Mulas. The sculpture recognizes the men and women who provide services to mountaineers.
Day 07: Ascent of Cerro Bonete, 5,052 m. Click on the link below the picture.
		Cerro Bonete as seen from Camp Canadá. Click here to view the Cerro Bonete webpage.
Day 08: Rest and recovery were on the agenda for this day. Everyone had another medical check; I was thrilled when the doctor told me my blood pressure had come down; my body was acclimatizing. I was grateful to be able to continue; with no previous high altitude experience other than Colorado 14ers, I often wondered how the altitude would affect me. Unfortunately, one of our team members was diagnosed with pulmonary edema; he had to be evacuated by helicopter. It was a reminder of the adversities in this environment; this weighed heavy on the team morale. Later that day, the camp staff started preparing the Sunday BBQ; Spanish music played loudly, lifting our spirits. Climbers gathered around the food tables and barrel fire; it was hard not to move to the beat. The BBQ was delicious, and everyone enjoyed the hospitality; it was a memorable evening.
		Click to get the feel of the Argentinean Mountain Culture and hospitality during the Sunday BBQ.
Day 09: On this day, we began the ascent of the mountain beyond base camp. The first step was to carry the team's shared supplies to Camp Canadá (5,050 m.), the first of three camps. The guides divided the food equally among team members. The 9-kilogram load was a bit overwhelming; the guide suggested I carry half of it, leaving the other half for the porter I hired for the climbs to the camps (today's "carry" was not included in the porter service). The company offers a porter service at an additional cost. The porters carry personal gear ranging from 10 kg (half-load) to 20 kg (full load); some climbers pair up to purchase each a half-load porter service. I chose the full porter service; I wanted all advantages on my side, as this attempt on Aconcagua was a one-shot deal. This service is worth considering for anyone who wishes to preserve energy for the summit push. The hike to camp 1 went well. The sunny weather was pleasant, although the wind seemed constant on this mountain. We enjoyed our lunch at Camp Canadá before backtracking to Plaza de Mulas.
		Ready, get set, go!

		We began the 750 m. climb via a field of penitentes.

		Slow and steady towards El Semáforo, a narrow path between the rockbands ahead.

		Looking down the Horcones Valley.

		Camp Canadá is hidden behind the pointy outcrop (center).

		Cerro Cuerno looms over the isolated rock pinnacles called Las Piedras de Conway.

		Taking a break at the rock pinnacles.

		Camp 2, Nido de Cóndores, is located at the saddle.

		Negotiating a steepish path through a minor rockband.

		Looking back at Cerro Bonete.

		Almost there.

		At Camp Canadá, after 3.5 hours of casual hiking.

		We dropped off the supplies we carried up and spent time at the small camp before returning to Plaza de Mulas.

		The south-western view over Cerro Dedos.

		Camp 2, at the saddle, is a mere 500 m. of height gain from here.

		After a long lunch break, we return to base camp.

		We're back in the field of penitentes.
Day 10: On the agenda was another rest day in preparation for our ascent to the high camps. The guides checked the forecast and confirmed that our best window was on Sunday, December 15th (in 5 days), just as planned. The team was thrilled that a window was presenting itself, as the weather was unstable, with very high winds on the upper mountain since we started the expedition. The window was a short-lived lull; I felt slightly anxious about the possibility of the weather changing, decreasing our chances of successfully reaching the summit. When you've traveled this far and invested so much time and money, uncertainty is uncomfortable, but enough of that, I had to stay focused. The high camps have no charging stations, so we double-checked that phones and watches had a full charge. We also divided all our gear for the next day; we weighed items for the porters, set aside the things for our daypacks, and stowed unnecessary stuff in the camp's depot. Anticipation filled the rest of our free time.
		Another day of relaxation before we start ascending to the high camps.

		Dividing and weighing gear for the porters.
Day 11: On this day, we finally started climbing the mountain by moving to camp 1. The ascent was slow as one of the team members did not hire a porter and had to carry all his gear. Once at the camp, we unloaded our gear in the tents; they were at an angle due to the lack of flat ground. After arranging our sleeping quarters, we headed to the eating dome, where we hung out for the rest of the day. The camp ambassador joined us, and we listened to Pink Floyd live on a little Bluetooth speaker; that made my evening. We retired for the evening after a decent pouch dinner and lots of tea in great company. The wind was still howling, slapping the tent walls; with the slanting ground, there was no doubt it would be a rough night. When I reclined, I could feel my heart pounding, but luckily, I had no headache.
		Group picture at Plaza de Mulas before we set out to climb the mountain.

		Back at Camp Canadá, but this time, we're heading up from here!

		While we travel through the high camps, we spend the night in tents.

		The moon is rising above the saddle and Camp Nido de Cóndores.

		The sunset is delightful.

		Another sunset picture. Picture courtesy of Heber Orona.
Day 12: We are finally heading to unchartered territory while climbing to Camp Nido de Cóndores (5,550 m.); this was the highest elevation thus far. It was another fine day, other than it was extremely windy. I hiked with my head down; every time I took pictures, I froze my fingers. The pace was slow and steady; I must admit that when we neared camp 2, I was a little short of breath. The camp was a welcome sight; we all made it in good spirits. From there, the view is stunning; beautiful glaciers glisten in the sun to the north while Aconcagua looms over so closely. The INKA tents are at the far end of the vast camp; upon reaching the encampment, I was thrilled to see that our tents were on level ground. We enjoyed another good dinner in the eating dome while listening to various music, from Spanish tango to industrial metal. Following a copious amount of tea, we retired for the night; there was almost no wind, and it was quieter than previous nights. Once again, when I reclined, I felt my heart throbbing. Despite that, I fell asleep within 15 minutes and only woke up to pee; it was surprisingly a very restful night.
		Anzo, my porter, is on his way to camp 2.

		It's windy, really windy.

		Looking back at camp 1, the smallest of the Aconcagua camps on the normal route.

		Horcones Superior Glacier and Cerro Cuerno.

		Taking a break before the saddle.

		Nearing camp 2, at the foot of Aconcagua's north-west slopes.

		Following 3.5 hours of casual hiking, we reached Camp Nido de Cóndores, 5,550 m.

		A new personal record.

		The view north includes some impressive mountains; 100 kilometers away, Cerro Mercedario (6,770 m.) is the 8th tallest in the Andes. And yes, there is another Cerro Bonete; apparently, there are at least 4 of them in Argentina!

		Camp Nido de Cóndores is vast and higher than Cerro de los Horcones on the left and Cerro Cuerno.

		Lovely sunset.
Day 13: To ensure we are well acclimatized, another day for rest and recovery is part of the expedition package before the summit push. We went for a short stroll, but other than that, we ate, drank, and didn't do much. I felt pretty good all day with no headache. Another big group of 11 arrived and disrupted the peace of our tiny bubble of 4. We had to share the dining dome for the first time on this expedition. The group erected their tents right next to ours; they spoke loudly, and one of the climbers coughed relentlessly. It's fair to assume my team members were as annoyed as I was; that affected the quality of our sleep. However, this was short-lived as our guide confirmed the weather was still favourable for the planned summit ascent on the 15th, which meant we were leaving camp 2 tomorrow.
		We're out on a stroll around the vast grounds of the camp.

		Bordering the Chilean border, Cerros Alma Blanca (5,175 m.) and Piloto (5,064 m.) are the last significant peaks to the north-west.

		Stunning glaciers looking north; Punta Consuelo (5,299 m.) would grant a great ski run.

		Cerro del Tambillo (5,669 m.) stands alone to the north-east.

		Our stroll grants a nice view of Aconcagua's upper mountain; the summit is on the left.

		The remarkable orange hue of dusk is upon us.

		Another spectacular sunset.

		I love the view north towards Cerro Mercedario.
Day 14: On this day, there was a lot of anticipation; we were moving to Plaza Cólera (5,970 m.), the third and final high camp. The following day was our long-awaited summit push. We hiked in high spirits under the typical blue sky and breezy conditions. The hike was a relatively shorter stretch with only 380 m. of height gain, but our progress was slightly slower due to the altitude. Once at camp, we had a yummy ragu in a pouch; I was amazed that I hadn't lost my appetite and still felt pretty good. In my case, I only had a slight headache and felt my heart pounding when I reclined to sleep. It amazes me how the body acclimates to altitude, granted climbers follow some simple rules; although, the process can be uncomfortable, with several restless nights. Sleeping at camp 3 was better than anticipated but not the best; I felt agitated from the excitement. The wind wasn't shaking the tent walls, which was a good sign; poor weather, like strong winds, is one of the reasons only 30% of climbers have a successful ascent.
		Leaving camp 2 behind.

		Our guides, Heber and Ignacio (standing).

		Porters and climbers on their way to camp 3.

		After a long traverse climber's left, the trail changes direction and veers to the right.

		Refugio Berlín (5,930 m.) precedes Plaza Cólera, 5,970 m.

		We'll hike under the snow on the left to a minor rockband; after which a short scramble leads to camp 3.

		An easy scramble breaches the rockband (arrow).

		A wire cable guides climbers through the rockband.

		Nearing Plaza Cólera in fine spirits. Picture courtesy of Ignacio Alonso.

		Camp 3 isn't busy; it's still early season.

		Getting close to the summit!!!!

		Aconcagua's summit towers over Plaza Cólera.

		Preparing for the long summit day with good food and fluids.
Day 15: We woke at 3:30 AM and got ready for breakfast at 4. The plan was to start hiking at 5 AM. When I opened my eyes, I experienced retinal oscillation (high altitude retinopathy); the condition resolved itself when I sat up and took several deep breaths. My preparation strategy included bringing a bottle filled with hot water to my sleeping bag and placing it by my feet overnight; in the morning, I drank the full Nalgene before breakfast. I also shoved hand warmers in my boot liners that I stowed in my sleeping bag during the night. I wasn't particularly hungry for breakfast; I snacked on bunt cake and pizza-flavoured crackers. As planned, we started hiking at 5 AM; the wind was moderately light, and the weather was perfect. While trekking, it became clear that I was over-dressed with a couple of down jackets; I would have stopped to shed a layer, but the guides didn't want to stop until an official break. From my experience, I know that overheating can lead to sweating and exertion; however, I wasn't going to disregard their agenda. The first magical moments were witnessing the moon setting and Aconcagua's shadow when darkness turned to dawn. We hiked very slowly; I recall thinking about videos of climbers trudging up 8,000 m. peaks with a couple of breaths for every step; I'm glad it wasn't that bad. Our break at Refugio Independencia was cold and breezy; the location seemed to funnel the wind. From there, I settled into a focused hiking zen; my mind reviewed moments leading to this and other non-related things. Once at the traverse, the terrain didn't change much, and we didn't stop to look around. We paused briefly at The Finger and continued to La Cueva. Once at the cave, we enjoyed a longer break. The sheltered spot is perfect for replenishing and contemplating the remainder of the ascent. La Canaleta, up ahead, requires determination; it is the hardest part of the climb, where the path winds up loose scree. Luckily, the slopes were bare until we neared the top. We trudged quietly in unison. Despite fading energy, we pushed on. We had a brief break before engaging on the summit ridge; Heber took advantage of the pause to give us a pep talk. I didn't need one; it would have taken thunder and lightning to turn me around! We negotiated snow slivers along El Filo del Guanaco without crampons; foot traffic provided steps but required attentiveness. I was elated and jubilant during the final section leading to a short, easy scramble; it was the apex of the climb, and the summit was just minutes ahead. Once atop, I was so grateful; after all the preparation, the anticipation, the uncertainty, I had made it! Our team's price of admission was 10 hours of hard work and perseverance; right now, we were perhaps the highest people in the world as the season for the 8,000 m. peaks in Asia isn't in full swing. We enjoyed a balmy summit stay at -36°C according to Mountain Forecast, but it didn't feel that cold; the wind wasn't that bad considering we were atop a 7,000 m. peak. We took turns taking pictures with the condor cross while soaking in the incredible sights. Cloud obscured the views, but I didn't mind as they added texture and revealed Aconcagua's mood. I imagined the voice of the APU (sacred mountain spirits in Andean mythology) saying: I will trade you cloud for wind. Our victorious moment atop majestic Aconcagua concluded when we started our descent. Going down required alertness; despite gravity, the task wasn't easy. All of us made a great effort to reach the top, and we were tired and depleted. One of the team members had nothing left in the tank, he required a couple of injections in the butt cheek to resume his descent safely. Other than that, we reached camp 3 without a hitch in 4 hours. That night, I ate ramen noodles and fell asleep almost immediately.
		The moon over the camp at 4:30 AM.

		Pre-dawn start; the ascent should take about 8 hours. Picture courtesy of Ignacio Alonso.

		Looking back, camp 3 is visible, cradled by rock pinnacles. Picture courtesy of Ignacio Alonso.

		As the sun rises behind Aconcagua, the moon sets between Cerros Piloto and Alma Blanca. Picture courtesy of Heber Orona.

		The sun casts Aconcagua's shadow over the western horizon. Picture courtesy of Ignacio Alonso.

		Ignacio, myself, and Facundo at Refugio Independencia, the wind here was frigid. Picture courtesy of Ignacio Alonso.

		Leaving Refugio Independencia, 6,380 m.

		Continuing on the ridge called Portezuelo del Viento (Windy Pass). Picture courtesy of Ignacio Alonso.

		A single rock pinnacle, The Finger, along the wind-exposed traverse, grants shelter and an opportunity for a group picture. Picture courtesy of Ignacio Alonso.

		Negotiating the long traverse above Gran Acarreo (Big Carry), we are lucky that it is clear of packed icy snow. Picture courtesy of Heber Orona.

		La Cueva (The Cave) is a lovely sheltered spot for a break. It grants a good view of La Canaleta (The Gutter), the hardest part of the ascent.

		From here, camp 3 is still visible.

		The summit ridge, El Filo del Guanaco, leads to top. Picture courtesy of Heber Orona.

		Whoot Whoot, I made it!!!

		Summit cairn with the south-western summit in the background; unfortunately, clouds engulf the infamous South Wall.

		To the north, clouds conceal the impressive mountains past Glacier de Las Vacas.

		The north-eastern view towards Cerro del Tambillo includes Cerro Amhegino (5,950 m.) in the forefront.

		The obscured southern view.

		Leaving the summit. Picture courtesy of Heber Orona.

		The long traverse is more difficult with high winds and snow; The Finger, seen next to the trail, is the only feature granting shelter along this stretch. Picture courtesy of Heber Orona.

		We're arriving at camp 3 after a successful summit day.
Day 16: We awoke on our own time and eventually went to eat; following breakfast, we packed all the gear for the porters. We descended from camp 3 to Plaza de Mulas at a fast pace. People congratulated us along the way and at base camp; we were the first INKA team to reach the summit this season. I felt a great sense of accomplishment. At camp, a lovely reception awaited; we sat down for a delicious spread of fruit, charcuterie, bread, and cheese, with the addition of a celebratory cerveza. I felt so grateful; many factors had lined up wonderfully to lead to this outcome, and we were all blessed.
		Leaving Plaza Cólera, heading back to Plaza de Mulas.

		Bye Bye camp 3.

		Camp 2 is on the flats below. Picture courtesy of Ignacio Alonso.

		Looking back at Aconcagua's upper mountain, La Cueva and La Canaleta are on the right.

		Leaving camp 2 behind and proceeding towards camp 1.

		Camp 1 ahead on the left.

		Plaza de Mulas with Cerro Bonete (upper right).

		Back at base camp; we are overjoyed.

		Enjoying a celebratory reception. Picture courtesy of Ignacio Alonso.
Day 17: This was a busy day. We had to pack our gear and bring it to the camp depot for the mules by 8 AM. After that, we had our last breakfast at base camp; we said goodbye and thanked the friendly staff we had gotten to know over the time spent here; their hospitality made a profound difference. Shortly thereafter, we commenced the 26-kilometer hike to the park gate. The weather was unsettled; perhaps Aconcagua was saying: Nice to meet you, now it's time to leave. While hiking, there was a lot of time to recollect this incredible experience; with a grateful spirit and a satisfied soul, my mind wandered, lost in random thoughts. I listened to my music for the first time during the expedition; every step, like the previous one, was never-ending. Once we reached Confluencia Camp, we sat down for a well-deserved break. We enjoyed another delicious reception of fruit, pizza, bread, and cheese before resuming the 7-hour-long descent. I was thrilled to see the INKA van in the parking lot; by then, my feet were burning, and my muscles were just about to go on strike action! While we waited for our gear at the mule's compound, I couldn't help but notice how lethargic we looked. When the mules arrived, staff loaded our gear quickly in the van and trailer. Moments later, we were on the road heading back to Mendoza. This phenomenal adventure was already ending; a sense of sadness was hard to ignore, perhaps because I was tired. My face glued to the van's window, I embraced the remarkable sights along Route 7; there was no way I was sleeping and missing out on the final moments of this trip; I savoured it until the very end.
		Leaving Plaza de Mulas.

		We have a 26-kilometer hike back to the park gate.

		Expressing my thanks to the hard-working mules. Picture courtesy of Heber Orona.

		That's a wrap; we're closing the book on Aconcagua; great job to the A-Team. Picture courtesy of Ignacio Alonso.

		My last sunset in the Argentinean Mountains.
Day 19: Before flying back home, we got together for dinner. It was an opportunity to recall special moments, relish our successful expedition, and express gratitude to Heber and Ignacio. The team's small size was a blessing; we shared a wonderful dynamic and became close over time. Dear friends, I wish you the best in your next adventures; climbing Aconcagua with you was a pleasure. Finally, I would recommend INKA Expediciones to all climbers looking for a guided ascent of Cerro Aconcagua; they are unquestionably the mountain's specialists.
		It's official; we climbed Cerro Aconcagua!
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