| Ref: Sean Dougherty's Selected
Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies |
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Beyond these signs
is the decommissioned trail. |
| Scramble:
RT 14.0 (includes Haddo Peak); 7.0 up. Aberdeen and Haddo are popular
classic climbs in the
Lake Louise area. The north-east glacier grants 3-4 pitches of 55˚
angle
ice before reaching the upper mountain; paired with a relatively short
approach and stunning views, it's no wonder many come here. Having
little experience with ice climbing, we were quite thrilled to read
about the straightforward climber's descent route via the south gully
into Paradise Valley. There wasn't much information on the internet at
the time other than Dow
William's picture of
the descent route; we'd envisioned going early summer to
take advantage of some firm snow! After several fouled attempts, things
finally lined up and we set off on this awesome trek with a fine bunch
of people. Having read Matthew's recent
trip report, we had a good idea
of the conditions; unfortunately, Fab and I had to give up the
idea of going with more snow... We met Charles, Jay, Derek and Sonny at
the trailhead at 5 AM and soon got on the way. Conversation was
plentiful as we hiked to the Lake Annette signs, we easily located the
decommissioned trail and followed it. The trail is in good shape until
you reach a crossing of Paradise Creek where the bridge is no longer,
534904. Staying on the east side of the creek, it's about 500 meters to
the broad south gully. The initial section of bushwhacking is
unpleasant but a little further, a faint trail exists along the creek;
it's worthwhile aiming for it but it is much easier to find on the way
down. Once in the open gully, we had a clear view of the uninterrupted
scree slopes that lead to the west ridge. We started the ascent under
cloud cover, overheating would not be a problem today. As we neared a
narrow section of the gully, Jay noticed a grizzly bear above us, he
was coming down on the trail. We scooted off to the side and bunched
up. We warned Fab and Sonny below, they had searched for Sonny's lost
GPS. I took pictures while holding my bear banger in the opposite hand.
He
appeared quite calm as he slowly meandered without looking at us much,
almost no sniffing and no standing; it was a memorable experience. We
continued on the trail to the water source and had a nice break on a
huge rock in the basin. The following grind was lengthy, we welcomed
the remaining snow and regrouped atop
the snow slope. The last stretch to the summit ridge looked short but
travelling was tedious at times, everybody was happy to gain the ridge
and peer down at the Plain of the Six Glaciers. Following another
break, we resumed hiking to the summit. Mount Hungabee was engulfed in
dark cloud, it seemed to hold back the poor weather; east of us, blue
sky and fair weather clouds were observed. Jay managed to check the
weather forecast on his phone and we collectively decided to carry on
to Haddo Peak but only after a spontaneous riff of Bohemian Rhapsody.
We stayed on Aberdeen a short time, we knew we'd be
back! |
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Soon thereafter, we
came across the access for Sheol Mountain. |
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Along the way, we
spotted the Mothership. |
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Beginning a short
bushwhack towards Aberdeen's south gully. |
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Hiking through this
shrubbery was the worst bit; going wide climber's left of the fan
offers much better travelling. |
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Nearing the narrow
section of the gully. |
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A collared grizzly
walks right past us, about 40 feet away with very little fuss. |
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We continued on the
trail the bear just used. |
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This stream is a
good source of water, it comes straight out of the ground. |
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Taking a snack break
in the basin. |
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Resuming the ascent. |
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Not as much snow as
we would have wished but very welcomed none the less. |
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Looking down. |
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Trekking on snow as
far as we can. |
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Loose and steep, we
stayed on bigger rocks whenever possible. |
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Jay enjoys the
scenery from an outcrop on the west ridge, Mounts Lefroy and Victoria
in the background. |
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Another nice break
with fine views. |
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Last stretch to the
summit of Mount Aberdeen. |
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Up the talus slope. |
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Pointy Deltaform
Mountain and Mount Hungabee on the right, Horseshoe Lake is partially
obstructed. |
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Reaching the top. |
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Last steps with a
dramatic backdrop. |
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A quick pause on
Aberdeen before we continue to Haddo Peak. |
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Haddo Peak is a
straightforward objective over simple glaciated terrain. |
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Heading down the
connecting ridge. |
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Continue
on to Haddo Peak |
| Back to home page |
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